Tyre size question...sorry!

[max and caddy]

I may have a sniff of a set of mud terrains in 235.70.16 format....is anyone running this size on an un modified 14" I don't want to chop the body about really.

Thanks in advance..

[lloydy]

They work out 4mm bigger in circumference than my 205 80 16, which pretty much fill the arch on my 16. (standard 16"tyre size) so i doubt they would fit

[max and caddy]

I did have a set of 225,75,16 on and they just rubbed the rear of the front arch....but they were also sadly lacking in tread and were a road pattern....

[v-lux]

I'm running 235/70/16 AT's on Merc ML Alloys with 20mm spacers and approx a 30-40mm lift with no arch mods.

Just had to take a bit off the lip on the trailing arm.

[max and caddy]

That's exactly what I was hoping to hear as I have Mls aplenty and 22 mm spacers...if I have to trim the arm that's not a problem.....maybe it's due a little lift as well, does look a bit down at the front and it needs pulling apart to change the rusty bottom arms for forged ones.

[v-lux]

Could always repair those rusty arms instead and relocate the shock mount while your at it.

That would be a bit of lift right there....

[max and caddy]

I guess so....got a pair of arms to go on but won't chuck the old ones...never seen any modified like that.

[..lee..]

Anyone fitted 35" tyres on a Syncro ???

[v-lux]

Ive only seen one with pressed steel arms modified in that way.

I've got cast arms on mine, so not possible to do the same mod, but if i had pressed arms i would certainly consider it. At a guess you could probably get a 40mm lift at the wheel by relocating it from the bottom of the arm to the top?

FYI, mine is running iirc, 25mm spring spacers on heavy duty 2wd front springs with Futbus shock extenders and top ball joint spacers. Hub center to wheel arch lip is 515-520mm i think..? It was ages ago i measured it.

Don't get any rubbing at all. When i did all the lifting i had a 4 wheel alignment done straight away using an extrapolation of the data Baxter put together for syncro wheel alignment.
All in all, when you tot it all up there's quite a lot of work in getting that tyre size on if your van is totally standard right now?

What engine are you running? I only ask that tyre size definitely needs a bit of grunt to make it driveable. At over 29" its fairly big!
I tried running 225/75/16 for a while (which are pretty much the same diameter) when i still had an AAZ in my van. It really didnt like it at all, slow acceleration and hot engine.....

[max and caddy]

Its an AAZ, was ok on the 225s power wise, the pressed arm hole is dead centre as standard..arms are ambidextrous and fit either way up, as the bolt is set into the arm I can see how it could be moved but I'm open to suggestions...

[max and caddy]

Meant to say cant! What final drive are you running again?

[..lee..]

You basically make a bracket that bolts through the original fixing with a shock mount and allows the shock to sit on a perch on top of the arm. Easy enough to do and is proven too.

[max and caddy]

Ah..I see....at what point does the camber become un adjustable? Aligning it is not a problem anyway but I'm not going crazy high just to squeeze a set of used tyres on, plan is to swap between both vehicles as required anyways so would need to lift both...

[..lee..]

Depends what you consider as acceptable negative camber. If you plan on retaining the day to day drivability don't go to high. If your building to off road then a bit too much neg camber can be put up with. I think the biggest issue with going high is the lack of sag due to the upper arm hitting the spring. I think this happens at about 520 /530mm wheel centre to arch height and without smaller dia springs new upper arms or thicker ball joint spacers I can't see a way around it.

[syncropaddy]

Remember the bigger/heavier the wheel/tyre combo you have, the bigger the flywheel effect will be so the less efficient your brakes will be!