for questions and answers about alternative power transplants on the T25, GTi, Porsche,Subaru etc, this is the place. You must register to post but anyone can read.
Brake switch might well be an inconsistent signal - one of the last errors to iron out! Can you tell us the ECU software number? Should be something like 028 906 021 GT... as Syncroandy pointed out - wiring is a bit different depending on which version it is. I'm sure you've got your wiring right - it's just so I don't suggest something stupid!
ewenmaclean wrote:Brake switch might well be an inconsistent signal - one of the last errors to iron out! Can you tell us the ECU software number? Should be something like 028 906 021 GT... as Syncroandy pointed out - wiring is a bit different depending on which version it is. I'm sure you've got your wiring right - it's just so I don't suggest something stupid!
are you sure it's a relay? It's probably your N75 solenoid or the N18 solenoid - those click as you start - how frequent is the clicking? The only relay you should really need from the old loom is the 109 relay and that should only click once when you turn the ignition on to power up the ECU. If it is the N75 solenoid that's good as it means it's doing what it's supposed to.
You got any further with the low boost issue? If it was running fine in the old car then you shouldn't have to adjust actuator arms etc, so don't go doing that until you're sure it's all wired and plumbed in correctly.
ah ok - not the N75 then, sorry. Not sure what that clicking would be, but some things do happen at WOT - for example the AC be cut off by a relay, so is it possible you still have a relay to do with this? I use that wire WOT signal to trigger my intercooler fan as well as temperature. The wire I use is brown/grey at pin 28 - I wonder if there's a cut-out relay (J246) on the end of that somewhere?
well i have a new temp sensor coming from VW , so can collect that friday... hopfully that will fix my low temp readings i am getting on the scan gauge..
will attempt to run wiring properly as well .. ( not over rear seat )
will also test the turbo actuator as well .. give it a pull see if it actually moves etc..
as i heard the donor car run .. but never drove it !
Exactly same situation with my AHU conversion. At low revs pulls like a train, I can hear the turbo blowing. But as I jump on the motorway and reach 60ish, the power sudently dissapears. Limp mode I assume. It has no power untill I turn off the engine and start again. My mate in the garage has some kind of diagnostic tool so I will try to read the error codes.
1990 VW Vanagon Westfalia California 1.6TD (now 1.9 TDI 90bhp)
that's not quite the same situation - you have a wastegate turbo and are probably experiencing limp mode from a 00575 code, which means your wastegate isn't opening as it should to regulate boost. Your N75 is different and actuates using pressure, not vacuum and regulates between a boost signal from the turbo and atmospheric pressure. When I experienced this on a standard AHU setup it was because my wastegate was stuck shut but it can also be from boost leaks to the N75 or the ECU not reading the boost signal properly from the pressure line. Yours should be setup like this:
good news is i have boost .. i looked at the vacum pipes ..and they where twisted and rubish .. so just bought some more ! replaced all the hoses and now i have boost.
quick spin up the road saw 7psi boost.... happy days !!!
bad news is my 36 quid temp sensor from VW did not fix my temp gauge readings ....
and i have now spotted air in the fuel line .. which i think might be my problem on start up .. where it runs "pooh" .. untill i give it a good rev ?