fuel gauge problem

An alchemy of sparks, copper wire and earth

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avant-garde
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Posts: 38
Joined: 05 Jan 2010, 19:09
80-90 Mem No: 7731
Location: Porthleven, Cornwall

fuel gauge problem

Post by avant-garde »

Hi all,

I have a 1982 T25 VW Aircooled camper 2.0l CU petrol engine.

A couple of days a go my fuel gauge stopped working as I was switching over the reverse light spade connectors on the gearbox. I'm not sure if it that had anything to do with the fuel gauge going or not.
I heard a click from behind the drivers seat when I turned the ignition on and that was that - no fuel gauge. I have no fuses etc behind the seat so I have no idea what the 'click' was.

My temp gauge has never worked since I've had the van!

I have read all the topics on here with a reference to fuel gauge problems and I have tried the following:-

I've checked the voltage stabiliser - power going to both left and right legs.
I've 'shorted' out the two legs (left and right legs) on the votage stabiliser to see if the needle moves - nothing
I've checked the ribbon and all the copper paths are in-tact.
I've cleaned the connections where the plastic thing slots into the back of the dash.
I've cleaned the connections where the fuel gauge meets the ribbon.
I've wrapped copper wire around the main earth fuse ring thing which is behind the fuse box.

Can someone tell me what the 'no needle movement when shorting the voltage stabiliser' means please. Does it mean the fuel gauge itself is knackered -????

I've now run out of things to check - could I now be looking at a new sender unit which is part of the fuel tank?
Is there anyway to check that whilst in situ?

Many thanks,
Kevin. :ok

avant-garde
Registered user
Posts: 38
Joined: 05 Jan 2010, 19:09
80-90 Mem No: 7731
Location: Porthleven, Cornwall

Re: fuel gauge problem

Post by avant-garde »

The four pin connector is above the fuse box, look for a lilac with black trace wire.
To test the gauge use a length of electrical cable with bare ends probe one end into the connector of the lilac/black wire making sure it connects with the metal contacts and touch the other end to a good earth point, switch on the ignition the gauge should rise to a full tank, if it does the fault is with the tank sender or wiring, if not it is a fault with the gauge 'or dash connections.

I've just tried this a a moment ago and the needle went to full!

I guess that means the tank sender unit or wiring then.

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