oil sump plug

[Choppski]

Nope ..I do it too... no mess

does the pump get all the sludge out the bottom then?

Yes- i am tempted to just use the strainer hole.....i just hate having things half done. It eats into my sense of right/ wrong. i want things to be right, not bodged.

[82JEW75]

Put it this way, the oil strainer plate (assuming yours has a bolt) is a steel bolt into a replacable and cheap steel plate.

The sump plug, (unique to type 4 engines as far as I know, the rest use the strainer plate...) is a steel bolt into an aluminium engine block, with a copper washer thrown in for good measure. It's just asking for trouble.

can these seize on some how?

See above comment (galvanic corrosion).


Personally, I wouldn't touch the type 4 sump plug, the strainer plate is a far better option, not to mention a lot cheaper to replace if you damage the thread...

[Choppski]

are you using a 12 point socket? try a 6 point (6 sided) and that will grip it better, wd40 and the rest wont help, its not seized in there the spanner is slipping, last resort would be a decent pair of vice grips, that will move it in no time

Its off!

Turns out a 6 sided socket, longer breaker bar and a bloody good thump was all that was needed to crack the nut off. Then it simply came out as normal, no cross threading. Must have been corroded on as suggested earlier in the thread.

sooo...winning quote goes to Phil!

however, i must own up and say i took it to a garage to do the deed as i was not confident it whacking it that hard. But hey it was a 10min job in the end.

New sump nut and washer, which will be changed frequently and then "Oh happy days..."

Thanks guys

[jamesc76]

Nope ..I do it too... no mess

does the pump get all the sludge out the bottom then?

Yes- i am tempted to just use the strainer hole.....i just hate having things half done. It eats into my sense of right/ wrong. i want things to be right, not bodged.

it gets most of it, but just the same as undoing the sump plug dont get it all! I service mine more than needed and change the oil filter every other oil change, but then mines a scooby lump and the sump is more rounded!

[Zündfolge 1-4-3-2]

Hi,

Just for the record I had exactly the same thing on the first oil change in my ownership, and solved it almost exactly the same way. Posted a few months-ish ago. Plug would not release. I didn't fancy it, but non the less in the end approached the warm engine armed with an 1/2 socket and a (too) long bar, used 2/3rd of its length in a controlled manner and it cracked off. Engine had witness of a blue tinted sealing-retaining fluid having been used on the plug at some time previous. I hope that retaining fluid was the major part of the problem, rather than over-tightness alone. I then refitted with a torque wrench at the correct value, and filled with Morris 15W40.

Gotta say it very important to high-light a few things here:
A breaker bar can do mucho-damageo. Steel plug plus magnesium crank case x lots of force can = a world of pain.
I almost didn't post this as this course of action, it is to me a very last resort, and a bit too far 'off-piste' to be considered a reach-for, recommend solution.
That said this does represent another case for the record. It was the second oil change for me when I finally released my sump plug:- gave up the first time and used the bolt in the plate described in previous posts.
Whist not having done loads of road vehicle repair work, I do have 30 plus years in engineering w-shops behind me, so have a degree of mechanical sympathy, and feel. If anybody does do this then as soon as one gets the slightest inking that it isn't going as intended then STOP and reconsider other solutions in the forum, like heat /cold etc.

[Choppski]

That's exactly why I went to a garage for this. I just wasn't confident about my mechanical feel... I obviously need to get my hands on her more often!

[Zündfolge 1-4-3-2]

Similar here, don’t do anywhere near enough ........... off-topic yellow-alert! Back to 1983 2.0-litre A/C CI Kamper:
V.nearly a ‘get experienced help with this’ situation for me also. Plus there’s the possibility of deep-fail moment on a simple oil change, whilst reading what others deal with on this site. So, decided to try and ease with a controlled higher force slight tighten / un-tighten action as one-step-try. Didn’t relish any of it & reckoned could easily end up in unpleasant re-tap bigger thread situation. Mech-sympathy: maybe all VW Type 2 Transporter I/T2/T25/T3 owners have mech-sympathy due what they drive. E.g. Image a current Car TV show style review of the gear-change experience.......... ”kitting needle in porridge” statement / video E D I T of stalls & grinding noises / declaration of can’t do it / become childish leading to tantrum / burst into tears / end-of world claim / drop a piano ...........know what’s going to happen next auto-subroutine.
Not all bad though, done some stuff inside maintaining an ‘83 CI Kamper kitchen: fixed interior lights, fixed fridge, overhauled cooker, rewired back from split charger to leisure battery and fridge whilst the kitchen was dis-assembled, new floor covering and a few lesser bits and bobs. Guess lots of these 80’s interiors are getting dated and are being replaced / modified. Maybe one day beige-world will be back in vogue, or I can wait less time = until I reach such an age where I start to think it’s ‘actually quite nice’ and on to ‘would even chose it from new’.

After the dubious start with the sump plug there is other impressive engine stuff planed, I’m going to attempt the plugs & air filter change next without a safety net. What could possibly go wrong? More impressive still will be cab steps & ‘screen corner welding, by a man with the skill, & trying to stop further deterioration where I can myself. More non-essentials like sink unit / water system overhaul & then I have got an under-slung Whale Space gas heater, to be fitted hopefully by Gasure in Chester. Top Team Gasure - looked over the van as a condition check after I first got it, later diagnosed & fixed an oil leak on the C.U, also Mr. Shaw checked & breathed on the tune whilst we where there = van benefited immediately. Whilst I wanna be able to service the engine, tune etc I still need to book for a service for the rest as I have no drive making axle stand work a public display of my lack of talent. Maybe it would be good form to make contribution to the site posting stuff on the stuff above; I figure any info may help someone if not already fully covered. I have benefited from others taking the time to post so need to do likewise with if possible.

[Choppski]

i benefitted alot by going to 'Techenders' weekend - its free and the guys are pretty clued up on these engines to give you tips, tools and just confidence. look them up on the (shhh JK forum ) for the next meet in sept.....

[Zündfolge 1-4-3-2]

Thanks for that, shall look into it. Sounds like opportunity knocks to learn something

Cheers

[ghost123uk]

I’m going to attempt the plugs & air filter change next without a safety net. What could possibly go wrong?

I hate fitting spark plugs to old aluminium engines. You can nearly always feel that wobble in the worn threads until the plug starts to seat. Then torquing it up, there is always that feeling it is going to do that awful "gone slack again" feeling

[Zündfolge 1-4-3-2]

Yep, there can be that 'mare.

Theoretically

If all goes to plan, shall remove with correct tool, new or old check set gap, re-fit initially by hand to avoid cross thread (cross owner), then got a torque wrench to seat plugs whilst avoiding over tightening - if there is a force to be gleaned from the reference books / on the site. Banking on an uneventful execution after the dubious start.