Paul Southworth wrote:Jocko,
If you are running your fridge on gas then YES you do need a vent. Otherwise carbon monoxide will build up to a dangerous level inside the van.
cheers Paul, not running on gas yet, but would like the option. So will get them fitted.
by vent read that as flu for the burnt gas... that is necessary
The fridge draws around 10 amps on 12v so is normally only used in this mode when the engine is running ie from the alternator. On my auto-sleeper the feed to the fridge comes from the MAIN battery through a 15 amp fuse at the battery to another 15 amp fuse on the Zig unit to terminal 30 on an RM14 relay. Terminal 87 on the relay goes to the selector switch on the fridge front, which in turn goes to the fridge 12v element. The trigger for the relay comes from the ignition switch, through a switch on the panel above the sink to terminal 85 on the relay, terminal 86 goes to earth. The relay is mounted behind the panel over the sink. I have also fitted a red indicator light from the 12v feed so I know when the fridge is on.
Hope this helps,
Sid
Sid from Bridgwater, Somerset, member No. 4623
1985 Autosleeper VHT 1.9 auto. (later called Trident) converted to run on LPG
Paul Southworth wrote:Jocko,
If you are running your fridge on gas then YES you do need a vent. Otherwise carbon monoxide will build up to a dangerous level inside the van.
cheers Paul, not running on gas yet, but would like the option. So will get them fitted.
by vent read that as flu for the burnt gas... that is necessary
the cooling vents are optional..
are they only needed for gas? 12v and 220v am I ok without the flu? I read on another thread that I need a vent to let out the heat that the fridge will build up when switched on.
Tin top C reg van to camper conversion. 1.9 golf tdi conversion.