1.6d out - skoda 1.9 aef in

[kit]

I think the solenoid from the car engines doesn't have the little spring in as the engine is upright so gravity makes it shut off, I had to take the spring out of my old cs pump as I had the same problem.

[matt brighton]

Thanks for that Kit

I will let you know how I get on

Regards

Matt

[matt brighton]

All in and working fine - thanks to excellent post from Colin and of course KIT - OBG welldore etc etc and others who have kindly posted advice and - + my mate ray who has spent days helping me with this.

Thanks everyone - passed mot monday with no probs and the difference its made has been well worth the effort

Just thought I should post a few things we found different to colins experience of putting the aef in

1- the hole for the dipstick needed to be 14mm (not 12mm)

2- Rather then tap and plug the old dipstick hole on wrong side of the block we simply put a bolt through with fibre washer either end - threadlock/ locking nut either side of the hole after angle grinding the webbing in the block to make a flush fit.

3- The stop solenoid - wouldnt work and now intermittently working - despite getting the spring out of the old 1.6cs and finding the aef did also have a spring too - which made no difference and after getting 2 solenoids (first one was the "other" less popular one that fits the lucas pump - it still didnt shut off ! - Direct from main dealers the stop solenoid is £128 + vat (its right I checked it twice) - Local motor factors = £10/£15 quid. Still not sorted this glitch but will be putting a washer in the body of the solenoid to stop the plunger sticking open and put the spring under a bit of tension. The solenoid from the 1.6 cs wont fit - its a different thread location.

4 - despite filling with 4.5 ltrs of oil we cant yet get a reading on the dipstick ????

5- couldnt get delay off relay for the cold start so put a button switch in the cab.

6 - dont forget to install the tin splash guard between the clutch and enging BEFORE you assembke and install the new clutch and flywheel bolts

7 As colin said - I too broke the plastic pipe on the brake vac pump top plate - have adapted the 1.6cs one to fit and it works but will repair the original (bigger) AEF one - and broke a drill in the block by using too small a pilot drill - that took us a whole afternoon to retrieve

8 - bleeding the diesel system is a real pain - not helped by the priming bulb pump I bought leaking - but would add that its a must if u havn't already got one fitted.

9- dont try doing this job without access to an engine hoist and engine stand

10 - I didnt have any clearance issues with the airbox

11 - throttle lever didnt need any alteration and all I did was cut out a square of the insulation and "dressed" the central rib of the lid to ensure cable runs free and clear.

Modded the anti theft bracket to allow better access to the solenoids and recommend you lengthen the wires from the solenoid end before installing the fuel pump

Think that everything but will post more if I think of anything and when I get a moment will try to post some photographs too.

Hope this will be of some use to anyone considering this job

Cost ???

I was lucky with the engine as with refund on tax from donor car - Skoda Felecia 1.9D and scrapping what was left I recouped £140 of the £200 purchase price

Bits n bobs - (clutch / new belts / w pump / filters / etc etc brought it all up to about £400

Next job is to fit the Corsa C EPAS power steering (adjustable) but giving the spanners a rest

BTW - best buy was one of those £99 "professional" 150 piece socket n spanner sets from Halfords - well worth it and highly recommended

Regards

Matt

[colinthefox]

Matt

Well done. I bet you noticed the difference as soon as you got into second gear.

Your comments on dipstick and oil capacity intrigue me. Did you use the AEF dipstick? That might account for the different sized hole and different oil capacity. I used the CS dipstick, which gives correct reading and uses 12mm/10mm hole.

[matt brighton]

Certainly did - what a difference !

Ref the dipstick - the cs dipstick is in that 1ft long plastic tube that bolts on to the alloy elbow we had to block off - couldnt see how we could locate that on the side of the block or am I misunderstanding something ?

Regards

matt

[colinthefox]

Ref the dipstick - the cs dipstick is in that 1ft long plastic tube that bolts on to the alloy elbow we had to block off - couldnt see how we could locate that on the side of the block or am I misunderstanding something ?

matt

We're obviously each referring to something totally different, so not surprising that if you used a different one it needed a different sized hole and registers different levels. I'm afraid I can't help you with that one then.

It's quite important to get the correct oil level to avoid oil surge if too low, and frothing if too high. I had some difficulty with the oil frothing after a motorway run, resulting in the Buzzer of Doom on the slip roads under heavy braking. I've now changed from an ordinary sump gasket to the baffle plate type, and so far it seems to have cured the problem. I had to extend the two gearbox holes where the sump bolts on by a couple of mm due to the thicker gasket, but easy enough, and I think it's an improvement.

[weldore]

well done Matt...another one to the rescue for others