T25 2.1DJ Cooling

[ghost123uk]

£1000 to "not" sort a coolant leak
Ummmm...

I know and unfortunately I not exagerating either with the amount spent on this, it might well be more. I am glad I've identified them correctly.

Others may wish to comment

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I will look for a post on the boards to see if anyone has removed and flushed the system out, to get some pointers.

Flushing = https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... g#p7767893" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (though, as you have a new rad, I would not think flushing, esp with a flushing chemical, is required).

Bleeding = https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ing_system" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I really don't trust it until this is all sorted out.

I have to agree, 6 years ago (before I knew all I know now !! = newby back then !!) I suffered costly overheating damage to the left hand head when I had a cooling issue (in my case it was a knackered Dalek cap and a blocked "T" piece in the bleed ring).

However, I seem to be the only one talking to you now and I am only an 8 year experienced 2 van owner, many on here have MUCH more (professional) experience than I. It would be nice to get second opinions on all of the posts above

[hammy44]

hi i have a problem with low water light staying on at min but tank full. had replaced the sensor way before replacing tank.today put old sensor in and low and behold it leaked at the conection.could be same with yours.

[mm289]

Trouble is Ghost, your right so its difficult to add more

Sensor on the expansion tank shouldn't leak, but it is worth drying the area and checking where the water comes fom - the sensor is in a low area so if you have a leek for example from the blue cap it can run into that area and make it look like the sensor is leaking.

As well as the t pieces check/clean the small bore hoses/pipes that run behind the water pump pulley and along the top of the cylinder head behind the pulley, you can see the ones I mean on the left of this pic



Bleeding the system I have always found to be pretty straightforward, no horror stories there really, just follow the post/wiki.

Asking the obvious, but does your cab heater work OK, i.e. get hot when the engine is warmed up?

Unfortunately, the real answer is to re-create the problem and see where leaks/pressure is venting from but I appreciate that it is not a predicatable event!

And I wished I lived in the West Country 'cause if that is what people are charging for changing a few components and refilling a colling system I am in the wrong business/county!

Cheers,

MM

[cmorris2104]

Trouble is Ghost, your right so its difficult to add more

Sensor on the expansion tank shouldn't leak, but it is worth drying the area and checking where the water comes fom - the sensor is in a low area so if you have a leek for example from the blue cap it can run into that area and make it look like the sensor is leaking.

As well as the t pieces check/clean the small bore hoses/pipes that run behind the water pump pulley and along the top of the cylinder head behind the pulley, you can see the ones I mean on the left of this pic



Bleeding the system I have always found to be pretty straightforward, no horror stories there really, just follow the post/wiki.

Asking the obvious, but does your cab heater work OK, i.e. get hot when the engine is warmed up?

Unfortunately, the real answer is to re-create the problem and see where leaks/pressure is venting from but I appreciate that it is not a predicatable event!

And I wished I lived in the West Country 'cause if that is what people are charging for changing a few components and refilling a colling system I am in the wrong business/county!

Cheers,

MM

Cheers MM. I think it was a case of just trusting that they would know what they are doing. I am happy to pay for a service if it is done, but not knowing much about the mechanics; it is very hard to critique. I have taken this as a lesson and will be doing the work myself (when able to) from now on. Thanks for the suggestions, I will take these hoses off to, when I do the others.

I did laugh at the picture, as I have never seen such a clean engine before, just a little jealous now.

[mm289]

You can read the build thread here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=80287



MM

[cmorris2104]

You can read the build thread here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=80287



MM

Wow, now that is a project, I will bookmark it, as I found it a really interesting read and thank you for documenting this as you went along, as I am sure that a lot of people will find it very interesting and useful, but walking and running comes into my mind for me at this time.

[AdrianC]

I am currently trying to find the hose that goes from the dalek cap, as I can't seem to find it on VW Heritage.

That hose is not under any pressure, so any "rubber" (type) hose that will fit will do just fine. Your local motor factors will likely have summat suitable for very little money.

Keep an eye on 'em, though - I've just had to re-replace the 'stat to bleed rail hose on ours. I'd used generic hose, that I happened to have kicking about - not that old, cotton braided. I happened to start the engine with the lid off, and noticed that there was a pool of water on the 'stat housing. A quick prod about found the braiding wet half way down, just at the point where that hose does a fairly tight bend. I cut all the braiding away, and the hose was just a mass of cracks, one of which had finally gone through to the inside.

[cmorris2104]

I am currently trying to find the hose that goes from the dalek cap, as I can't seem to find it on VW Heritage.

That hose is not under any pressure, so any "rubber" (type) hose that will fit will do just fine. Your local motor factors will likely have summat suitable for very little money.

Keep an eye on 'em, though - I've just had to re-replace the 'stat to bleed rail hose on ours. I'd used generic hose, that I happened to have kicking about - not that old, cotton braided. I happened to start the engine with the lid off, and noticed that there was a pool of water on the 'stat housing. A quick prod about found the braiding wet half way down, just at the point where that hose does a fairly tight bend. I cut all the braiding away, and the hose was just a mass of cracks, one of which had finally gone through to the inside.

As they are under that cotton weave and I can't really see what is going on with them, I am tempted just to replace them. I assume that the lead from the header tank is also 7mm?