a Specialist kind of nightmare

[BOXY]

My guess would be it's the wrong wire. If this carb has a electric choke or heater element it's likely it works on a simple timer circuit. That would mean it gets a 12v live for a set time (maybe 10 minutes) before switching off. This could be the wire that's incorrectly connected tot he cut-off. Hopefully someone who understands the wiring for this carb can tell us?

[Tony Tone]

I'm with you on this one Boxy. I'm guessing the easy fix is to run a wire that has a 12v supply when the ignition is on (coil?) to the idle cut off ? .

Then leave the other carb wires ( seem to be two of them)as is to various heaters as they seem to be doing their job, running for ten mins or so then switching off.

Can someone move these posts to electrical as maybe that's where they best sit ?

[Tony Tone]

Does anyone know if picking up an ignition live wire from the coil to feed the idle shut off valve will be ok ?, or cause problems ?

[kevtherev]

The temp switch on the side of the thermostat controls all the carb and manifold heaters
they are all attached to relay No. 1 in the junction box. (86 on)
The temp switch switches off at 80 deg.
Disconnect the switch once the engine is running... If your engine stops then its certain.
The cut off solly has its own plug but can be mistaken

[Tony Tone]

My Van is an 83 but looking at it the replacement seems to be a later DG engine and carb.

Wiring the idle cut off to 12v from the battery cured the problem stratight away and I can reintroduce the problem by reconnecting the wires. I'm rrsally after a good point to take a 12v supply from to test run everything on the road.

My guess lies at slightly differing wiring from and 83 to a later model. It looks like they fitted a newer ignition module to the van too so maybe this compounded the problems. Early loom, later ign module and later DG engine, carb etc etc ?.

I'll have a good look tonight at it to see if there are wires from the thermostat and do the disconnecting thing to stop the engine. As it stands, the wires lose their volts at a predictable time so this hints at a timer/Heater switch being involved.

[kevtherev]

Do you have a plastic thermostat housing?
If not then the temperature switch is on a coolant pipe with two wires.
The junction box is where you should start
And thats not changed.
The relay in it controls the heaters.

[Tony Tone]

Hi Kev, would you be referring to the switch, centre pic with the bit of black insulating tape around it ?, now has a spade connecter I might add.

I disconnected the wires whilst the engine was running, it stopped dead.

I reconnected the wires at the switch I could hear the relay clicking in the control box, so I assume all good there and working as it should be. Pic of the switch is here:

http://s1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 9099_n.jpg

So, the sure to this is to tap into a ignition live 12volts feed to tun the idle cut off from. Can I just come off the spade connectors on the coil ?, nice and simple then . Don't really want to have to run miles of wires.