Starter Motor Will Not Engage

[Cyprus dave]

Camper van (1900 petrol) will not start as the starter motor will not engage.Having read various posts and Wiki so far I have:
Taken the starter motor out and had it bench tested out here in Cyprus, where it seemed to work OK.
Have recharged the battery, then let it stand for two days before checking the voltage, which was 12.75.
Also checked the reading at the starter motor, that was 11.40.
I think the problem may be with Ignition, when I turn the key I could feel a click as the battery/oil lights etc come on, but could not feel any resistance when I turn the key to start the engine.
In carrying out these checks recently when I put the plastic key in the isolator switch the battery/oil etc lights come on without using the ignition key, suggesting I suppose that the ignition it is defective.
Before I order A new Ignition Barrel from GFS that will take weeks, if not the rest of my life to get here, do you think I am heading in the right direction
and/or Is there anything else I need to consider.

Many Thanks
Cyprus Dave

[1664]

Sounds about right, but if you have a small multimeter you should check if you get 12v at the small connection at the solenoid when the key is in the starting position. Pull the connection off the solenoid first, then red to connection, black to bodywork and get someone to twist the ignition key. No volts with ignition in cranking position is either a wiring problem of knackered ignition. Since your ignition 'feels' different, that's probably it. You could check the wiring for continuity from the ignition if you wanted to eliminate that.

[ghost123uk]

As what Bren says ^^^, but =

Camper van (1900 petrol)
Taken the starter motor out and had it bench tested out here in Cyprus, where it seemed to work OK.

Your not supposed to run a T25 starter on the bench, ever, because it has only one support bearing, at the "blunt end", the other bearing (near the gear) is left in the vans bell housing, meaning the shaft of the motor is only supported at one end when off the vehicle. Trying it off the van results in the armature flailing around inside the casing, rubbing hard against the magnets

[Cyprus dave]

Thanks for your replies 1664 And Ghost. Think I will order an Ignition Barrel from GFS and hope my Cypriot Electrical Technician!! has not done any damage.
Been out and checked the spade where the red lead goes, no reading on the Multimeter, but I think that's down to the Ignition Barrel. Will let you know the result when the new one arrives.
Just another thought is there any benifit in fitting another earth strap, if so where?

[Cyprus dave]

Sorry it's me again, when I phoned GFS to order what I thought would be a complete Ignition Barrel or switch that fit on my steering column I was informed there are three component parts as follows:
5=ignition switch 928VG0050 at GPB 4.95 from GFS car parts.
1=steering lock 928VG0110 at GBP 13.50 from GFS car parts
3= ignition barrel and keys at GBP 45.00 special order from Germany (as Febi UK no longer supply it)
It was also explained that a way to remove the lock from the steering column was to drill a small hole in the correct place, and remove a pin, and the component part. (I think I remember reading something similar on one of the posts)
So my question now is which parts to I order?
Is this drilling process the best way to do the job?
Thanks
Cyprus Dave

[1664]

Can't help with the ignition I'm afraid. Use the search facility as there's been a few threads over the years regarding replacing ignition switches and/or barrels before. Check the Wiki out too. If all that fails, start a new thread with that as the subject

Think it'll be the switch part you need as your key still turns it and works the steering lock doesn't it?

Just another thought is there any benifit in fitting another earth strap, if so where?

Not really unless the original's knackered in which case fix it....

[California Dreamin]

All you need is the white (nylon) ignition switch ...not the barrel or lock as they are purely the mechanical parts for locking the steering etc.

The switch is held by just one screw from underneath but to get to it requires the removal of the steering wheel/cowling/switches/plugs & barrel housing..about a 35 minute job in total.
You don't need to drill anything (you would only do this if you were replacing the lock which you are not)

If you already have the starter motor removed I would be very tempted to replace the small oilite support bush in the bell housing (supporting the starter end) these bushes are prone to wearing oval giving slow cranking as the pinion doesn't mesh well with the ring gear so at a cost of about £2.50 are well worth changing.

An extra braided earth strap is also a good idea, don't even bother to remove the old one on the gearbox end...just add a second obviously making sure that each end is a clean bare metal contact.
Lots on the WIKI about ignition switch replacement......

Martin

[bigherb]

As Martin says you just need the ignition switch they are still available from VW dealers part no 111 905 865L not sure how much they would be over there but will be original quality.