There is a union at the end of the hard line that you will need to be VERY carfeul with. If the flexi's have got to go anyway then you may as well cut them in the middle so you can undo either end easily.
You will need to bleed up the brakes afterward, yes.
If you're replacing the flexis then you might like to consider getting a set of steel braided lines from Brickwerks as a replacement, just to sharpen up your braking a bit.
Personally, if I were doing this and I didn't have to replace the discs and pads then I'd leave well alone, especially as replacing the front discs on a 2WD means replacing the wheel bearing too, IIRC.
The union may well not come apart cleanly at all, in this case may need to need to mess with the brake lines, you will then need the tools to crimp the ends.
If you are like me it's around then you will discover that the shiney braded flexis you were going to use wont fit anything as the ends are wrong and will have to go and purchase rubber ones on top
Euan
Economic migrant, cultural extremist and religious bigot.
It's the kind of job that is prone to creep. It can get big quick so don't do it four hours before you need the van to go on holiday with. You may need to aquire parts after you have taken the brakes apart so be prepared by having another vehicle, lift or bus route worked out.
On the other hand the bits aren't that hard to replace, the rigid pipe stuff is cheap, the ends aren't expensive and none of it requires huge amounts of skill or experience. The tool for making ends is a bit steep and hard to get though so you may want to borrow one or check that you can if you have to.
The other bits that can go wrong are the bleed nipple, it can be coroded and breaky; and bleeding esp if you have replaced some rigid pipe, this can take more goes than you think to chase out all the air.
Euan
Economic migrant, cultural extremist and religious bigot.
With respect, if you didn't know whether you had to bleed the brakes or not you may be better seeking proffesional help.
But if you do want to do it yourself - the small pipe from the caliper to the flexy may break,then that may break off into the caliper etc etc etc. The trade price to me for a later model (June '86>) service exchange caliper was £45 a couple of years ago. Kust Kampers (J10255 or J10256) is ~£79 exchange plus carriage,GSF (62625 or 62626) is £58.50.
As with most things on old vehicles if the hoses,pipes,calipers etc have been neglected it's rarely a straight-forward job and one thing tends to lead to another,you may be better renewing that area of the brake system and have done with it. (discs may still be OK though)
Hope this helps,Ian.
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Your plurals in your first post are a bit mixed up so I thought I better add that anything you do to brakes you should do to both sides at the same time. Unless you like sliding sideways down the road when you stamp on the anchors obviously
As already said..
If you didnt know you had to bleed the brakes after changing a hose, then it would be better to pay a reputable garage to do it... if you dont do it correctly and you lose the brakes... it normally = a big accident.. you and your families safety...
By the state of the ends in the pics.. you will prob break the steel pipe on the other side too.. so if you are goning to tackle it, get a cheap "type 2 brake pipe kit" from GSF etc as most pipe lengths are similar.. the ends are already made and all you have to do it select the right length...
use some rust eze/plusgas etc, and if possible, where you can get one on, use a 6 wall drive socket/spanner.. if the metal pipes break, cut close to the nut and stick the socket on it..
Use fresh DOT4 fluid and bleed all of the system.
Having scared my self witless and having to use the hand brake to stop the van after this job I know how dangerous it can be. Unfortunately that was a profesional mechanic from a recomended garage
Next time it's my brakes I will be doing it my self!!
Euan
Economic migrant, cultural extremist and religious bigot.
Started with a scored disc from a completely worn brake pad as the other piston on opposing side of caliper was siezed. I sum up the options and decide having read a bit about the subject that I have to replace the disc as it was too badly scored. OK that means I need to change the bearing within the disc/hub. OK that also means I need to rebuild (or at least atempt to) the brake caliper - new piston seals, dust seals and lots of friggin around making sure it's clinically clean etc.
I also decide the flexible hoses need changing (probably a big mistake) as they look a bit perished. Too late I've snipped the things in two. I then atempt to disconnect the very corroded looking unions. Flippin heck! open ended spanners, ring spanners, sockets and finally mole grips. No not even mole grips will disengage them. they are getting more Gnarled and burred with every go. I can see the problems if the ridged pipe breaks.
The van spends another 2 weeks on the drive (along with the 4 it has already spent there) as I call upon a mechanic. He saves the day as with a bit of special know-how disconnects then. He also makes me up the small ridged curly pipes between flexible hose and caliper.
Job nearly done. Oh bugger! I forgot I have to do the same on both sides of the van. Another 1-2 weeks of messing about.
I eventually got the job done but have missed a good 2 months of early summer trips out.
I am still bleeding the brakes now. I have'nt even attempted to bleed the rears as the nipples are so seized up.
Next time I am going to either get a man to do it or or contemplate suicide!
And as pointed out many times, it is NEVER worth compromising on brakes. When I first got my Caravelle I fitted copper pipes throughout and replaced all flexis, pads and shoes. I just didn't fancy problems later on.
Finally, WHY is the shoe fitting kit so damned expensive????
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