I've been doing some research into this as i want piece of mind to protect my pride and joy. I'd like your collective help and knowledge in the poll below.
The choice is between the options below, but please base your choice on value, ease to apply and effectiveness:
Thanks guys!
Protecting under the bus - which is best?
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- Choppski
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Protecting under the bus - which is best?
1982 Viking with 2.0 CU
Carpe Diem
Carpe Diem
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Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
I voted other...
I've heard excellent things about Dynax. Both the Dynax S50(for cavities) and Dynax UB (for underbody).
Ideally have good paint under it though.
I've heard excellent things about Dynax. Both the Dynax S50(for cavities) and Dynax UB (for underbody).
Ideally have good paint under it though.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
I voted other:
UBS 220 for chassis arches etc.. on top of fertan treated steel or paint
HT cavity protection wax for the er...cavities (it will not slip and melt a high temps)
They are both made by the same German firm.
UBS 220 for chassis arches etc.. on top of fertan treated steel or paint
HT cavity protection wax for the er...cavities (it will not slip and melt a high temps)
They are both made by the same German firm.
1990 Volkswagen Type 2 (T3). Campervan conversion by Luna.
1.7 L (1,715 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY)
Resoration photos http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=85759
LUNA-FREIZEITMOBILE GMBH: http://tinyurl.com/6mjerz8
1.7 L (1,715 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY)
Resoration photos http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=85759
LUNA-FREIZEITMOBILE GMBH: http://tinyurl.com/6mjerz8
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Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
Another one for Dynax here, really good results.
Protecting under the bus - which is best?
I usually use rustoleum to touch up paint on top of Bilt Hammers rust converter hydrate 90 then zinc primer. And dynax .
1983 1.9 Ivory Westy Joker
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Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
For ease of use/getting hold of, Waxoyl in the sills/cavaties after getting them cleaned out. I have heard really good feedback on por15 for the floor, outer chassis rails, etc etc. But por15 is very time consuming to apply. The other thing is clean everything and use schutz on it. You would need a compressor and a schutz gun ( You could use mine if needed). Hope that helps a bit mate.
jim
jim

JRP Automotive welding,bodywork, resprays, servicing and repair.
Classic Vw's
Cheshire
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Classic Vw's
Cheshire
07854516387
Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
The good thing about the transparent and semi transparent waxes is that you can inspect regularly and check for rust
1990 Volkswagen Type 2 (T3). Campervan conversion by Luna.
1.7 L (1,715 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY)
Resoration photos http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=85759
LUNA-FREIZEITMOBILE GMBH: http://tinyurl.com/6mjerz8
1.7 L (1,715 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY)
Resoration photos http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=85759
LUNA-FREIZEITMOBILE GMBH: http://tinyurl.com/6mjerz8
- nicktennear
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Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
Classics Monthly magazine published its 3 year rust prevention tests update this month and they seem to suggest that for cavity wax Korrosions Schutfett and Nuxodol 700 is a good bet. Waxoyl gets an honourable mention. They're finishing the test later in the year.
1983 Reg 1.9 DF, mostly Devon. Wave on your way past.
- AdrianC
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Re: Protecting under the bus - which is best?
I've heard bad things about POR - somebody on another forum used it a few years back, followed the instructions to the letter (it's very picky about that, apparently), and it still chipped and flaked badly over time.
I had a long chat with a specialist supplier about the best paint to use on "mechanically cleaned" (ie wire brush rather than blasted) steel. They sold a wide range of stuff, so no particular bias. I was thinking about the very zinc-rich "cold-galv" paints, but they pointed me to Rustoleum instead.
As far as wax, I've got a big box of Dinitrol waiting to be used. A schutz gun and air is a must. As long as you get enough of whatever in there, it's a lot better than nothing. The problems start when you don't get proper coverage.
I had a long chat with a specialist supplier about the best paint to use on "mechanically cleaned" (ie wire brush rather than blasted) steel. They sold a wide range of stuff, so no particular bias. I was thinking about the very zinc-rich "cold-galv" paints, but they pointed me to Rustoleum instead.
As far as wax, I've got a big box of Dinitrol waiting to be used. A schutz gun and air is a must. As long as you get enough of whatever in there, it's a lot better than nothing. The problems start when you don't get proper coverage.
A year and a half living in a Westy hightop... http://www.WhereverTheRoadGoes.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;