Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
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Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
I need to replace the brake cylinders on my T25,so I will need to bleed the rear brakes ?, I car't see any bleed niples on the rear ! How do I beeld the rear brakes ....please
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
They have most probably been sheared off by a previous owner. As you are replacing them there will be nipples on the new ones.
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
It helps if you have a pipe clamp to minimize fluid loss...used on each side in turn, to temporarily stop fluid loss by blocking each of the rear flexi hoses.
This way bleeding is kept to a minimum and less air is introduced into the system (easier to bleed and remove all the air)
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=brake+ ... 5RB&zoom=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
This way bleeding is kept to a minimum and less air is introduced into the system (easier to bleed and remove all the air)
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=brake+ ... 5RB&zoom=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
might as well change all the old brake fluid, for fresh water free fluid
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
California Dreamin wrote:It helps if you have a pipe clamp to minimize fluid loss...used on each side in turn, to temporarily stop fluid loss by blocking each of the rear flexi hoses.
This way bleeding is kept to a minimum and less air is introduced into the system (easier to bleed and remove all the air)
Whilst it's a valid point, I think this particular van is a prime case of "sod that"... Time to change the fluid anyway, especially since a previous owner has proved to be a numpty when it comes to brake maintenance - hence the AWOL nipples.
Fluid's cheap enough that I'd be tempted to use any dismantling of the system as a good excuse to change the fluid.
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
AdrianC wrote: especially since a previous owner has proved to be a numpty when it comes to brake maintenance - hence the AWOL nipples.
I'm not a numpty with ours the rear nipples are crap ... I lost one off ours in the 6 months between servicing/inspecting the back brakes. Renewing the fluid makes sense

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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
Ian Hulley wrote:AdrianC wrote: especially since a previous owner has proved to be a numpty when it comes to brake maintenance - hence the AWOL nipples.
I'm not a numpty with ours the rear nipples are crap ... I lost one off ours in the 6 months between servicing/inspecting the back brakes. Renewing the fluid makes sense
Must've been very lucky with our rear cylinders, then - they both came undone with no problem, despite looking like they'd not been touched for years, and despite the fluid being so wet it boiled almost as soon as you looked at it.
It might be worth taking one of the nipples down to a local motor factor, and seeing if they've got better quality ones the same thread.
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
Thanks for all the help from every one, Yes I will change the brake fluid at the same time ....I never thought of doing that!
Thanks for all the replys
Thanks for all the replys
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
AdrianC wrote:California Dreamin wrote:It helps if you have a pipe clamp to minimize fluid loss...used on each side in turn, to temporarily stop fluid loss by blocking each of the rear flexi hoses.
This way bleeding is kept to a minimum and less air is introduced into the system (easier to bleed and remove all the air)
Whilst it's a valid point, I think this particular van is a prime case of "sod that"... Time to change the fluid anyway, especially since a previous owner has proved to be a numpty when it comes to brake maintenance - hence the AWOL nipples.
Fluid's cheap enough that I'd be tempted to use any dismantling of the system as a good excuse to change the fluid.
That wasn't really what I meant, I was really just pointing out that allowing the fluid to just drain out can sometimes lead to a difficulty in bleeding out the air.....I would whole heartedly recommend changing the brake fluid but still use a pipe clamp to minimize fluid loss when changing the wheel cylinders. This makes it a doddle when bleeding and doesn't put too much strain on tandom seals which would otherwise need vigourously pumping BECAUSE you have allowed air to enter the pipework upto the master cylinder.
Martin
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
Hello,
Just to throw a stone into the tranquil pond.....
So you're going to change the brake cylinders....
First you're going to have to get the rear drums off....
If your brake pedal nearly hits the floor, and if your hand brake needs 7 clicks before it will hold the van on a slope...
You're going to have to change the brake shoes....
After you have got the drum off...
When you pull the shoes you will find that all the little springs and silly washers have rusted to a wafer.
Then you will have to puzzle out the rear brake adjuster....
It will all need unsiezing, cleaning , painting, reassembling, putting new little rubber hats on the bleed nipples,
(they look so cute)
After you have got the drum off......
And before you do anything you would be wise to plus gas the thread of the pipe going into the back of the slave cylinder.
Then you have to crack it off, without damaging the steel tubework.
preferably using a 11 mm good quality brake pipe spanner, ( FACOM 11/13 26€)
if you bust it you'll have to fit new steel pipe.....
After you have got the hub off.....
You see, 17 times out of 9 the rear hub is so well worn that there is a large rusty ridge all the way round, and you will never pull the hubs off the shoes manually.
Hire a large enough puller, slacken off the handbrake completely, ( wires hanging down), vehicle super solid on axle stands, and wind off the drum complete with mangled worn out shoes, assorted rust and dead springs.
Get a complete overhaul kit, springs, shoes and cylinders..Valeo do a good one, don;t know about UK though.
If you are lucky the silly spring tag will not have /rusted, broken/disappeared.
You will need a really good pair of thin nosed locking pliers, (and stainless steel knuckles) to get the last top spring on.
Oh and if you can't afford new drums you can grind them out, vice, bench 125 mm grinder, 1/2 worn flap wheel pad,
MASK and GOGGLES.
Now you see why previous owner just bled the brakes at the inlet......
Leaving it for you to sort...
Have fun....
Work SAFELY
It's a VW thing...
Cordialement,

Just to throw a stone into the tranquil pond.....

So you're going to change the brake cylinders....
First you're going to have to get the rear drums off....

If your brake pedal nearly hits the floor, and if your hand brake needs 7 clicks before it will hold the van on a slope...
You're going to have to change the brake shoes....
After you have got the drum off...


When you pull the shoes you will find that all the little springs and silly washers have rusted to a wafer.
Then you will have to puzzle out the rear brake adjuster....

It will all need unsiezing, cleaning , painting, reassembling, putting new little rubber hats on the bleed nipples,
(they look so cute)


After you have got the drum off......



And before you do anything you would be wise to plus gas the thread of the pipe going into the back of the slave cylinder.
Then you have to crack it off, without damaging the steel tubework.
preferably using a 11 mm good quality brake pipe spanner, ( FACOM 11/13 26€)
if you bust it you'll have to fit new steel pipe.....
After you have got the hub off.....




You see, 17 times out of 9 the rear hub is so well worn that there is a large rusty ridge all the way round, and you will never pull the hubs off the shoes manually.
Hire a large enough puller, slacken off the handbrake completely, ( wires hanging down), vehicle super solid on axle stands, and wind off the drum complete with mangled worn out shoes, assorted rust and dead springs.

Get a complete overhaul kit, springs, shoes and cylinders..Valeo do a good one, don;t know about UK though.
If you are lucky the silly spring tag will not have /rusted, broken/disappeared.
You will need a really good pair of thin nosed locking pliers, (and stainless steel knuckles) to get the last top spring on.
Oh and if you can't afford new drums you can grind them out, vice, bench 125 mm grinder, 1/2 worn flap wheel pad,
MASK and GOGGLES.
Now you see why previous owner just bled the brakes at the inlet......

Leaving it for you to sort...
Have fun....
Work SAFELY
It's a VW thing...
Cordialement,


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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
Oh and if no one has mentioned it..
have fun getting the drum off..
have fun getting the drum off..

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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
kevtherev wrote:Oh and if no one has mentioned it..
have fun getting the drum off..
Sometimes, I think we really lucked into this van. Not only did the drums come off easily, but the self-adjusters work...
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
There's no luck involved it's called previous owner care.. and spotting it when you view the van
The luck, if any, is buying one at your budgeted price.
The luck, if any, is buying one at your budgeted price.
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
kevtherev wrote:There's no luck involved it's called previous owner care..
<chuckle>
Given the state of the brake fluid and some of the shoe retaining clips, there'd not been a lot of that.
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Re: Bleeding rear brakes on 1989 T25
kevtherev wrote:Oh and if no one has mentioned it..
have fun getting the drum off..
Hmm, no-one's mentioned the backing plates yet. If you're really lucky, these won't have rusted through yet and won't need replacing. It's really good fun trying to get them off the lower locating dowel btw.
Dave