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Ok, I have a 1985 Pannel van with a "95" 1Z TDi conversion (courtesy of Phil Packman cheers). Have run it for 20,000 trouble free miles but now want more power/torque. The main question is in what ORDER should i do any modifications?
Chipping - bigger turbo - bigger injectors - stand alone ECU (don't know if that's applicable) - inter cooler - e.t.c
Not got much knowledge with diesels so any input would be appreciated,
I fitted AFN injectors in mine from local diesel place. Complete rebuild/test with new nozzles for £132. Not bosch but best quality substitutes.
No smoke (ok , tiny amount but t20 mins on vagcom changing IQ settings cured that!) Noticeable difference in torque. Can do Haldon Hill (one next to telegraph at end of M5) in fifth still and thats with a 4.14 diff and .7 5th.
Been looking at Malone Tuning in states for one of their chips. They appear to have got Tdi chips cracked and can do a tune to match bigger nozzles etc.
works out at £200 ish. little sceptical about tuning boxes as from what i have read they effect settings after ECU so doing adjustments on vcds might prove a bit hit and miss. need to read more/ask more Qs on this one i think before i decide. As previous, malone do them to match new injectors. Might pick one up in summer and bring it back as hand luggage so mokeys at GPO dont play footie with it and dont get stung on import/vat/duty etc
This is just what I need:-)
Was never going to stay stock with my AFN. Have read loads of stuff on the tdi forums, but have struggled to find any really good recommendations for remaps. There's loads of places that do em, but loads of "pooh" around too.
Just to ad, do a bit of reading on intake temps, IIRC 'factory' intake temps are meant to be between 35-55 degrees sure i found this on google.
Mine were 85 ish and that was with an inter cooler mounted badly in engine bay were battery was meant to be. Have not got it in a scoop above gearbox and cant get them above 55 no matter how hard i try. Im guessing first step is to get intake temps to acceptable level before you start doing owt else.
Nice one Elvis,
Have managed to acquire an inter cooler that may fit with a little jiggery pokerey. at present it just has a pipe where the old one used to be and seeing as it will be virtually free it's top of the list.
I'm presuming the chips would come pre set up to the spec of your engine, and are not adjustable afterwards ?
Also want to keep standard internals really and was wondering what sort of power increases are possible with a budget of around £500-600 whilst maintaining as close to 100% reliability as pos ?
If you havnt already found it try http://www.tdiclub.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , LOTS of info (read FAQs at top to start with) you can waste a few days of your life reading info. Lots od stuff on there written by quite switched on/well inofrmed experts and the like
There's some good stuff on there. The stuff on bov's was quite interesting. I did see somat on YouTube about these. Some Bloke had one on an A4, when he turned it off, it Had really bad surge. Conflicting info.
I can burn chips and write maps - I redid my AHU ECU with modified chips for a VNT turbo. If you go with bigger nozzles you need more air for sure, and there's only so much adaptation will help with that. If you have an EGR gauge then you can go for the really cheap switchable evry mod - I did this and it's pretty impressive but it just moves tolerances somewhat.
If you do want to remap with the old MSA15 ECUs you need to desolder the PLCC32 chips and best to fit sockets - this isn't easy to do unless you have the right tools. I'm happy to send out trial chips if people let me know their setups - remapping is really about trying to match the turbo maps with the fuelling maps - get it wrong and it'll be worse than stock. In my experience it usually is - certainly the first few times.
Elvis is right about intake temperatures - and that goes for everything else - you need to have the whole setup running within specified limits before trying to get more out of it.
the colder the air the denser it is, so there is more fuel burnt and hence more power. The higher your boost and the cooler your air the more fuel the ECU calculates the IP can deliver. If the air is very hot then the power will decrease. If you have a really inefficient intercooler (or none at all), then the temperature will go outside the specified limits in the maps for fuelling and you will get incomplete combustion and higher exhaust gas temperatures which puts extra stress on the engine internals.
A properly installed air-air intercooler should be fine in my opinion - what matters is the air flow over the element of the intercooler. whether that's air-air or the radiator for a water chargecooler type.
Have you logged what temperatures you've been getting so far with your existing intercooler?