Hi, I have a high temp gauge. I have removed the level relay and still the same. Replaced the VR on the back of the gauge pod. Ive now taken gauge out and drilled the face off to look inside. Looks like its got hot on the wound wire strip inside, but how do I test it?
I have another water temp gauge (new) in a pod running so know its not overheating but would like to get this working to stop the light blinking all the time!
Any help would be much appreciated
High Temp Gauge
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AngeloEvs
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Re: High Temp Gauge
The wiki explains how to test the calibration of a guage without removing it but since you have it stripped down and removed it why not put the spare one in its place?
If the gauge still goes full right the problem is elsewhere and you need to disconnect the wiring at the sender. If the gauge is reading high then the LED will flash continully - that is normal. Gauges are pretty robust, the most frequent cause of high readings are faults on the output side of the gauge, e.g, wiring to temp sender, temp sender, module 43, membrane PCB, etc.
To Test.
When viewing the gauge from the rear (Nut/studs showing) the terminal on the right is +V feed (normally 10V from the regulator but 12V is ok for testing), the centre and smaller terminal is Earth (the battery negative) and the Left terminal normally connects to the temp sender. To test you need to supply the gauge with 12V or 10V and ground the centre nut. When connected like this, the LED should flash for a few seconds but the gauge should not move - if it rises then its faulty.
If it passes the above test then you can check the calibration by connecting a 1W or 1/2W 100 ohm resister to the Left terminal of the gauge - the other side of the resistor connects to earth (the battery negative). The resistor acts as a dummy temp sender at normal operating temp. The needle should rise to approx midway with a 12V supply on the gauge and stop, the RED LED should also stop flashing after 10 seconds or so.
If the gauge still goes full right the problem is elsewhere and you need to disconnect the wiring at the sender. If the gauge is reading high then the LED will flash continully - that is normal. Gauges are pretty robust, the most frequent cause of high readings are faults on the output side of the gauge, e.g, wiring to temp sender, temp sender, module 43, membrane PCB, etc.
To Test.
When viewing the gauge from the rear (Nut/studs showing) the terminal on the right is +V feed (normally 10V from the regulator but 12V is ok for testing), the centre and smaller terminal is Earth (the battery negative) and the Left terminal normally connects to the temp sender. To test you need to supply the gauge with 12V or 10V and ground the centre nut. When connected like this, the LED should flash for a few seconds but the gauge should not move - if it rises then its faulty.
If it passes the above test then you can check the calibration by connecting a 1W or 1/2W 100 ohm resister to the Left terminal of the gauge - the other side of the resistor connects to earth (the battery negative). The resistor acts as a dummy temp sender at normal operating temp. The needle should rise to approx midway with a 12V supply on the gauge and stop, the RED LED should also stop flashing after 10 seconds or so.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
Re: High Temp Gauge
Cool thanks for that info..... much appreciated. Sorry for late reply, been up to my elbows in head gaskets and turbos! The other gauge I have hooked up is an aftermarket 52mm one I bought when I first got my van and fitted an AAZ. As everything was unknown to me I wanted to be sure it wasnt running hot, so now it would be nice to get the factory one going.
Ive just had a white dial kit made, but now Ive put it all back together the gauge is going straight to the right. Ill have another look at it when I can get this dam timing sorted(no marks on crank pulley!)
Anyway thanks for your help and I'll let you know the outcome. Cheers,
Ive just had a white dial kit made, but now Ive put it all back together the gauge is going straight to the right. Ill have another look at it when I can get this dam timing sorted(no marks on crank pulley!)
Anyway thanks for your help and I'll let you know the outcome. Cheers,