Does this need welding or can it be left? Advice appreciated

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 07 Apr 2012, 08:37

Aye you're right there. I never bothered replacing that floor to sill section as AngeloEVS and I were of the opinion that (in my case) sliding window had been contributing to leaks over the years. I have no fridge at all so less likely to be caused by condensation. Decided in the end that it actually provided a useful vent in case of a gas leak and for general air throughput when sleeping. Turned a disaster into an advantahe. Just used flashing instead, treating and cutting away the worst corrosion and giving the inside of the inner sill a good coat of hammerite while it was exposed prior to tacking on outer sill.

Few ways you can do this job but I liked the idea of removing the potential for further rot altogether - plus the vent which works great if doors are shut and sliding window slightly ajar.

I did find the job a whole lot easier once I'd cut the sill out - you can get to everything then.

Post by **thehosepipe** » 07 Apr 2012, 13:13

Lol! I'm being overwhelmed by options. Thanks everyone.

Had more floor up.
C pillar and rear part of sill is good. B pillar bottom part rotten.

Outer sill has pretty much no lip left, nor does panel. But only the lip is gone the panel and sill outer are good.

Post by **thehosepipe** » 07 Apr 2012, 13:24

The rot reaches back to near the c pillar and the front bolt of the seat mount, but stops there.

So do you think that cutting off what's left of the rusty panel lip, replacing the outer sill and welding along where the bottom ofthe panel and the sill meet could work. Welded from inside the van would still have the seam visible outside? What would be the downside of this option versus the replacement of the lower part of the panel?

Finally this (and other rot I'm finding like rear wheel arches) is really beyond my skills. So while I may strip and expose, and then paint after, I would appreciate if anyone knows a good bodywork guy who knows these vans and isn't too far from north London?

Al

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 07 Apr 2012, 16:28

Many modern cars have panels glued together with super-strong modern glues. Personally I think the loss of that horizontal seam at floor level is no bad thing (stops further trouble) and never had anyone notice that its missing on mine. You could weld a section to floor edge with a turned up lip where it meets outer sill and simply glue it in place with a suitable panel adhesive- save warping or messing with welding. Flash band would do it too. I just left mine open - its hidden anyway. Long as rusty/corroded edge is sorted. You could just add bracing pieces. Others may wish to completely redo this area - up to you. I have an oven above this area - the gap seems to provide a better airflow. Any water or condensation in that area now just runs straight out instead of puddling on the floor and rotting it out. I even modified the slotted holes in inner sill to provide easy path out.

Post by **waltraud** » 07 Apr 2012, 16:54

I've recently repaired this area keeping it almost to factory spec but my repairing and letting in some steel to a similar hole but with a little bit more of the original lip on the inner face of the sill meets upper panel (see recent post in this part of forum)- on reflection if i had the time and was not working on the road i'd strip back as far as posible to get to the niggly lowr B post bit you showed....its funny how slowly (for some of us) experience pays off as i've come to realise that bodging or avaoiding rarely saves time in the end and if far less satisfying....as i say, speaking form personal experience. If MM can make the panels or you can source them then seems like a reaosnably straightforward job as you have good access to the whole are. I can see Covkids point that without the horizontal seam between outer skin and inner floor any water can flow nicely down into and out of the lower sill area. Good luck.

Post by **thehosepipe** » 07 Apr 2012, 19:14

So general advice is to do the 'full' job, while covkid suggests bracing the area but not fully boxing it in. I have no idea which option to go for, lol!

If I go the whole hog I think these are the parts I need which are available commercially.

Lower side panel
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Sid ... geToLoad=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Full outer sill
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Out ... geToLoad=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And then get the closing sections and b pillar made up. Are the above links the right parts?

I guess I need to decide which way to go, you guys have all been very helpful. Wish the choice was more obvious

Post by **thehosepipe** » 07 Apr 2012, 19:53

My intention is to remove the high top and replace with a pop top. I must admit I'm now very scared at how much rot I might find under there!

Post by **waltraud** » 07 Apr 2012, 21:42

Choice is like creativity, personal, not necessarily conscious.... But technical skill, precision etc seems to me to be best left to those with the training and experience. T

Post by **boatbuilder** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:00

thehosepipe wrote:My intention is to remove the high top and replace with a pop top. I must admit I'm now very scared at how much rot I might find under there!

Its pretty terrifying if you think of the whole thing at once. Best way is to do one bit at a time...you'll feel much better

Post by **waltraud** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:05

Bit pissed though so might well be BS.....!

Post by **waltraud** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:06

Quite!:)

Post by **thehosepipe** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:14

Lol pissed philosophy is usually the best.

Yeah one step at a time is how I'm trying to view it. But next step is coming soon, soon after Easter in fact.

Well it will be lovely when it's finished!

Post by **Plasticman** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:22

quite,

its late , both those part s are unsuitable for your forthcoming exploits,and not suggesting one over the other as thats your choice but
leaving the supplier aside you require either this
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/t25/ori ... 13898.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and cover the lot up , easiest and perhaps the quickest,
or
http://www.ahschofield.co.uk/80-91-brp1.php#parts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; if you use this then you do NOT want the other part above, you fit this and have to make or aquire a closing plate for the top of it and also a part for the lower side panal, i can maybe do these for you but talk to me after the easter break if you choose this option.
as for taking the top off, well i will assume you are being whistfull after imbibing fluids

mm

Post by **weldore** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:38

when the top is removed....

sometimes..

..well quite often there are tears..some are of joy ..but they are rare

Post by **thehosepipe** » 07 Apr 2012, 22:55

Hi mm

I'm probably going for a full fix, so the sill and panel part is the one. Although its for a rhd vehicle. Is it symmetric, can it be flipped for a lhd? They also seem to do a b post that could be used

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/t25/ori ... 18790.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

No I'm not joking about the roof. It's an ugly beast and I'm also worried about the state it's in. Have a Devon pop top available to me which will hopefully go on after easter. That depends on how bad the roof is beneath of course.

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