Pushrod tube leak

[maximillion]

Hi,

Just changed all my pushrod tube seals (81, Air-cooled, CJ Engine), while the engine was out and the oil drained. Typical that now i have the engine back in and running i have a drip, drip, drip from two of them. Just ordered two 'new tubes' and seals and i'll fit these and make sure the bores are all clean, i have read to avoid using any sealer, any thoughts for or against sealer? and what type?

Silly question coming, how high should the oil level be in the engine, do i need to drain the oil before i remove the tubes, or is the level lower? I'll jack the side up a little?

Many thanks

[RecoveringAcademic]

Hi, can't answer your question, but I can say: what a brilliant website you've got. It's a big help to duffers like me.

[kevtherev]

No sealant.. fitted correctly they do not need it

[maximillion]

Thanks, my blog is well out of date, must update it - got lots to add.

The only way i could get the tubes to go in was from gentle persuasion onto the end of a socket and extension bar, the twist in method on the Wiki just didn't work.

Anything on the oil level? My parts have just turned up, so might have a go later in this nice weather...

[kevtherev]

can't' you just drop the oil into a container... then just put it back?

[sarran1955]

can't' you just drop the oil into a container... then just put it back?

^^^ WHS

Dont use goop.

Use oe quality seals.

Use old pushrod tube as drift to fit new tube.

Cordialement,

[maximillion]

Sadly, kids stopped play tonight!

If its ok to do that, then thats plan A. I have one mate you said drop the oil and another (who has a splitty, so its bit different) who said the oil level is below the tubes?

Thanks
kev

[horizontal kipper]

I put a small amount of permatex 3H only on the large end of the pushrod tube seal as in the Tom wilson book

[jason k]

as a temporary fix try rotating the tube 80 degrees it sometimes stops the leak