Hi all.
Just fitted the replacement gearbox. All went really well.
Ran up engine to try clutch and gears and it won't go into gear. Loads of grating and don't want to force it. It appears that the clutch is not releasing. Bled the hydraulic clutch system loads. It looks as if the release arm is not is not travelling enough, however I used spacers to lengthen travel of the arm. But still won't go into gear and loads of gear grating noise.
We have found that the clutch appears to disengage at about mid pedal travel and when full down the clutch is not enaged so can't get in to gear.
Could I have the friction plate round the wrong way. I have hunted for pictures as I did'nt pay attention when I took the clutch off and then installed the friction plate with the longer boss length on the gearbox side rather than into the flywheel, so this is all I can think of as everything went to plan?
I really don't want to drop the gearbox again but see no way forward?
Cheers for any advice.
diesel ABF gearbox and clutch probs
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austen smith
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austen smith
- Registered user
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 15 Mar 2012, 20:21
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
Re: diesel ABF gearbox and clutch probs
May have sussed prob.
Pressure plate is hitting friction plate as the springs have shiny marks where they have been touching????????????????????
Question - is the release bearing forks in a ABH box the same as an ABF???????????????????
Friction plate new from GSF to go with original pressure plate and release bearing as they are both very new. And so now I presume incompatable???????????
I presume that although we have a Y1/1.9 litre engine recently installed by a so called specialist using the 1.6 diesel flywheel, I will still need a 1.6 diesel engine clutch????????????
I will check with GSF tomorrow on the friction plate suitablility but can only think that it is not the correct type for the original pressure plate??????
Cheers for any replies.
Pressure plate is hitting friction plate as the springs have shiny marks where they have been touching????????????????????
Question - is the release bearing forks in a ABH box the same as an ABF???????????????????
Friction plate new from GSF to go with original pressure plate and release bearing as they are both very new. And so now I presume incompatable???????????
I presume that although we have a Y1/1.9 litre engine recently installed by a so called specialist using the 1.6 diesel flywheel, I will still need a 1.6 diesel engine clutch????????????
I will check with GSF tomorrow on the friction plate suitablility but can only think that it is not the correct type for the original pressure plate??????
Cheers for any replies.
Re: diesel ABF gearbox and clutch probs
all the gear boxes use the same clutch fork.
are you using the t25 flywheel on your 1.9?
you should be and as such just use the complete t25 clutch kit and all will be ok
are you using the t25 flywheel on your 1.9?
you should be and as such just use the complete t25 clutch kit and all will be ok
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austen smith
- Registered user
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 15 Mar 2012, 20:21
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
Re: diesel ABF gearbox and clutch probs
Thanks for reply and a message for everyone
Let this be a lesson to all enthusiastic DIY diesel mod upgrades.
I have learnt that:
1) even so called VW renovation specialists do not realise that Y1 engines from Golf's do NOT have a gearbox input bearing in the crankshaft. Easy fit and saves your gearbox from destroying itself by the input shaft waving around in the wind. Try to locate a replacement gearbox, buy it, ship it and fit it!!
2) do not try and save money by buying a 1.6/1.7 diesel friction plate alone because of oil contamination. They do not exist and can create a whole host problems if you try this route. We bought just a friction plate from a well known parts supplier and it turned out to be incorrect. But you only find out when the gearbox is in and the clutch will not operate. Time to take the gearbox out again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
3) before fitting engine buy a complete clutch for a 1.6/1.7 including the input bearing and you will save more than the cost of getting over the related problems if you don't.
4) even if the so called specialist says things like "we have put a new oil pump in the replacement engine" & "we have done several of these conversions" get him to change both the rear crankshaft seal and the gearbox input shaft seal as a matter of course at the time of fitting the engine, and very cheap. Saves a whole lot of oil loss issues as you do not know how long the replacement engine has been hanging around. This doesn't appear to be an area for consideration, especially if the "so called specialist" is based in Dorset!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
History of van to date:
a) faulty radiator = loss of water and engine seizure. When heater stops working you have no water in the engine, new engine required, our fault. STOP IMMEDIATLEY AND CHECK VAN FOR PROBS!!!!
b) no replacement of crank seal in replacement engine = oil gushes out of old seal and leads to massive clutch slip = engine out for new seal????????
c) gearbox input shaft bearing missed = massive oil loss from gearbox, slipping clutch and trashed gearbox. NEW GEARBOX REQUIRED????????
d) wrong friction plate =gearbox in & out twice = much frustration
This is just to assist other guys from going through what my son and I endured recently. All is ok now and working fine. And we made a better job!!!
happy motoring
Let this be a lesson to all enthusiastic DIY diesel mod upgrades.
I have learnt that:
1) even so called VW renovation specialists do not realise that Y1 engines from Golf's do NOT have a gearbox input bearing in the crankshaft. Easy fit and saves your gearbox from destroying itself by the input shaft waving around in the wind. Try to locate a replacement gearbox, buy it, ship it and fit it!!
2) do not try and save money by buying a 1.6/1.7 diesel friction plate alone because of oil contamination. They do not exist and can create a whole host problems if you try this route. We bought just a friction plate from a well known parts supplier and it turned out to be incorrect. But you only find out when the gearbox is in and the clutch will not operate. Time to take the gearbox out again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
3) before fitting engine buy a complete clutch for a 1.6/1.7 including the input bearing and you will save more than the cost of getting over the related problems if you don't.
4) even if the so called specialist says things like "we have put a new oil pump in the replacement engine" & "we have done several of these conversions" get him to change both the rear crankshaft seal and the gearbox input shaft seal as a matter of course at the time of fitting the engine, and very cheap. Saves a whole lot of oil loss issues as you do not know how long the replacement engine has been hanging around. This doesn't appear to be an area for consideration, especially if the "so called specialist" is based in Dorset!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
History of van to date:
a) faulty radiator = loss of water and engine seizure. When heater stops working you have no water in the engine, new engine required, our fault. STOP IMMEDIATLEY AND CHECK VAN FOR PROBS!!!!
b) no replacement of crank seal in replacement engine = oil gushes out of old seal and leads to massive clutch slip = engine out for new seal????????
c) gearbox input shaft bearing missed = massive oil loss from gearbox, slipping clutch and trashed gearbox. NEW GEARBOX REQUIRED????????
d) wrong friction plate =gearbox in & out twice = much frustration
This is just to assist other guys from going through what my son and I endured recently. All is ok now and working fine. And we made a better job!!!
happy motoring