Not for me but my brover. hes been removing the exhaust from hhis 1.9 petrol engine and has sheared a stud. Even worse hes managed to break a stud extractor tring to remove the broken stud .
Is there any way or method of removing the extractor? Its flush with the head with no way of getting anything on it.
Would drilling a hole at the side of the existing stud, then re tapping be a possibility are there any waterways in that area ?
Would a carbide tipped drill touch it?
I'd have a go at welding onto that and letting the heat soak help loosen it and build up a head that you can grip with moleies, the toolsteel will take mig fairly well, might take a few attempts, depends if you can get decent penetration with the welder, I've managed to get M4s out with that method before now and regularly use it to get out coarse M7s
about to do my exhaust,,,,,and your pic is the reason i have gone to get new system fitted...
yiu may want to grind it flush and try solid carbide drill(not tungsten) i just got an easy out for someone with this method.................make sure you centre drill first
cheers lads, right ive just been informed that hes found some other isues with the engine and has now ordered a replacement unit, well thats one way of doing it . thanks for the info.
Just for arguments sake. if removal of the original stud was not possible would it be ok to drill and tap along side the original? never know might have to do it on m,y own some day
has anyone ever managed to get a sheared and corroded bolt/stud out with an easy out ?
modern easyouts made in china snap at the first hint of resistance and even high quality SnapOn ones seem incapable of getting anything out (but they don't snap, just ream out the hole you've drilled), nor my best quality American made 1960's ones - ok for big screws in wood but afaiac useless for corroded steel in steel/alloy
Hell's teeth - it's obviously the season for this to happen.......
I've got one stud that's done the same - sheared off, so started drilling it out in increments and second drill bit sheared off nice and flush. Drilled in to one side and - AAARGH - second drill bit sheared off
There's no chance of welding onto the miserable bit of steel now masquerading as a stud, so if I strip the head off, would a machine shop be able to remove the remnants? It's got to be cheaper than the £400-odd for a new head......
Of eight, I have two left to remove - heres hoping!
Anyway, there is a video on YouTube (Removing Sheard Studs) that shows a method for removing sheared studs that are flush to the face. How well this would work in your case I don't know but a large washer with a centre hole diameter that is smaller than the sheared stud diameter is welded to the stud and a nut is then welded onto the washer. Holding the washer in place is a problem but you may find a way of solving that.
Useless I know, but there is a very sophisticated peice of equipment that is specifically designed to disentegrate sheared studs without damaging the thread. It was designed to overcome the exact problem of tool steel bits and extractors that sheared while drilling out or removing sheared studs/bolts. It's an amazing peice of equipment but who the hell has one!
Mike T wrote:
There's no chance of welding onto the miserable bit of steel now masquerading as a stud, so if I strip the head off, would a machine shop be able to remove the remnants? It's got to be cheaper than the £400-odd for a new head......
ye gods some folks get in a flap.
to remove it takes time and patience and better still with the engine out.
Engine out, is not a reason to have a panic attack, VW made taking out rear engines easy peasy eight bolts two wires and a couple of pipes..
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. thanks for the info.
