Leightweight body parts

[magicbus]

Hello lads and lasses!

Trying to put together a fast and maneuverable bus. I've got 2 engines a scooby turbo and a 2.2 Ford V6 not sure which one to go with yet but either way I'm going to need to lighten it up a bit so it doesn't eat through engines to quick and so turns corners when I tell it to.

So getting to the point do GRP doors exist? Is there any other way of lightening it without compromising the van's use?

Staf.

[R0B]

I am pretty sure they dont.

[kevtherev]

give it some time and let the naturally occurring holes lighten it...
then...removing glass and heavy seats is a good one too

[faggie]

just fit the van with a full width bed and removable cooker and sink unit, fit uprated front and rear anti roll bars uprated lowered springs and dampers and wider wheels and it will handle great , dont skimp on the engine spec you can never have to much power ,

[CovKid]

I've said many times that camper interiors (chipboard and MDF) add considerable weight to the T25. It is possible to build very light units with as much strength - just takes some lateral thinking. I made a buddy seat this way which I can lift with one finger but it's VERY strong. Hardboard panels set into simple frames make good replacements for heavy boards and serve the same purpose.

Another alternative is aluminium frames faced with lightweight materials

[Plasticman]

and treat the body as we would a race one , there is loads of weight you can get rid off a 100 kg should be possible, at the end of the day what do you want to end uop with
mm

[magicbus]

I'd like to end up with something that will surprise people as it roars past them on the motor way, looking at doing the old Baja thing of having bigger tyres on the back with some flared arches and changing the sliding side door into one that's hinged at the top with gas lifts.

I'm going to keep it tin top with a custom camper interior made of either marine ply or aluminium sheet sprayed to match the van, I thought if I fitted ceramic hobs and elictric mat type underfloor heating then when parked at a camper site with mains hook up I'd still have hobs and heating but wouldn't have the weight of the gas bottles, but these are only ideas so far as I'm still working on my first project which is a classic restoration, it'll be a while before work begins on this one so if anyone has any suggestions then feel free.

Staf.

[Plasticman]

and pray what resto would one be doing
,wish we a a smilie for noseyness.
mm

[R0B]

You want vohringer board for making the interior.Its at least half the weight of marine ply.Probably more than twice the price though.

[Plasticman]

be easier to have one of those units that loydy has.
mm

[magicbus]

Thanks for the heads up on vohringer MM I'll look into that. and does this loydy chap have some lightweight units?

[R0B]

Can i suggest a visit to specsavers..

Thanks for the heads up on vohringer MM

[magicbus]

Sorry about that Rob, you'll sleep safely tonight in the knowledge that I'll be fitting a perscription windscreen!

[CovKid]

Vohringer averages £100 a board whereas hardboard (which can take colour staining) is around a fiver:

http://www.wickes.co.uk/red-plastic-wal ... vt/110105/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you run 1" square lengths of pine down the length of a circular saw to create a groove, you can very quickly create constructional boards which can be screwed or better still, pegged together. The other way is to make the frame and clad it, finish corners with L-shaped trim. Either way you can get the weight right down. Best to work it all out on paper. Might do this as a Summer project and post up the dimensions.

[magicbus]

Yeah that does seem a little more cost affective!