Stripped Sump Plug - Help!

[Mark S]

Changed the oil today and the sump plug was turning indefinitely in the hole when I refitted it. It wasn't cross-threaded and I was not using much torque - I suspect the damage to the threads was done at a previous service. I removed the plug and reinserted it with oodles of threadlock on the threads. I then tightened it to the point where it was the stiffest to turn. It does not appear to be leaking and I don't think it is in danger of working loose. But obviously this is a problem waiting to ambush me again at some point in the future - at the next oil change, if not before.

The thread on the plug itself looks fine. The stripped thread is therefore the hole in the sump. Replacing the plug is sadly not the solution.

Any ideas?

Engine is AAZ conversion, ie: with JX/CS sump fitted.

[Graham81]

If its not leaking then leave it and use a Pela oil extractor next time, I darent take mine out its been in there for years!

[Ian Hulley]

I couldn't drive our van knowing it had a loose sump plug. A chum had this and he tapped it out to M16 std thread and he used an M16 socket head capscrew which JUST clears into the recess.

Ian

[California Dreamin]

As Ian said ^^^^^^^^^ do it right....drill and tap to 16mm. I seem to remember Simon (Brickwerks) saying he uses a Peugoet/Citroen 16mm sump bung (drop him an email) he does so many he's probably got the parts in stock.

The Reverands remarks......

You will need a steady hand...and the ability to drill in square and true.

An M14.5 drill bit, with an M16 X 1.5 tapping tool, not a rethreading tool for the M16 sump plug.

You have just one shot at this, so no pressure then.

Martin

[edoh]

not sure if this is relevant to your van - but this topic came up recently -
pictures of replacement sump plug and details of thread sizes etc - towards the end -
https://club8090.co.uk/forum./viewtopic. ... =sump+plug" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[NicBeeee]

Hi

Changed the oil on a Citroen Berlingo today and can vouch for the 16mm sump plug. I also use a pela pump on my smart car and although it works ok for the nice and runny 4000m old fully synthetic oil from a petrol engine, I wouldnt fancy emptying an old diesel, could be there some time.

Nic

[Mark S]

Thanks, all. Food for thought. I'm not comfortable with the idea of drilling as it's a one-shot chance as they say. The tinware would also need to be dropped as a minimum, maybe the sump itself. There is also the chance of swarf getting into the oil.

What I think I might do is: (1) run it as it is on short journeys, monitoring it carefully for leaks; (2) try to pick up a replacement sump; and (3) when it arrives, tap it out to M16 and fit a French plug. That should make it bombproof and overcome any mistakes of the past. I might look at the oil pump idea as well, for convenience if nothing else.

[Ian Hulley]

Engine is AAZ conversion, ie: with JX/CS sump fitted.

Right, I didn't see that My advice was based on a petrol wbxer engine. Replacement sump would be the way to go.

Ian

[Graham81]

Pelas are fine with derv oil, Granted it does take longer but just make sure its piping hot!
All done from the dipstick so no dirty hot oil up your sleeve, had to get one for the golf as it is lowered and has an engine cover underneath.

[Mark S]

OK, I've looked at a few options:

1. VW/Audi Sump Plug Repair Kit http://www.hutsonprecision.co.uk/thread ... -1145.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; .

2. Laser Tools New Sump Plug (outsize M15 x 1.5) http://www.lasertools.co.uk/news.aspx?article=526" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; .

Has anyone used either of these or an opinion on which would be better in this instance? I'd like to do the work with the engine in-situ. I'm resigned to dropping the tinware but hopefully not much else. I don't mind having a go at tapping but am keen to avoid drilling.

Also a question WRT the Pela oil extractor. It states in the blurb that it uses the dipstick hole and will not work where there is a sharp bend in the guide (ie: as there is in the T25 diesel). Presumably I could just use the adjacent filler tube instead as that goes straight down to the sump? Can anyone tell me if they have used either technique with success on a T25 diesel?

Thanks in advance.

[Mark S]

Update: run down to Devon at the weekend. No drips.

DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING, BALDRICK!!!

Must remember to put it on the list of things to get sorted, though.

[mercrocker]

Just jumping in on this thread (no pun intended I have no humour reserve left!) did an oil change this week...Have to admit I usually have the van serviced at a Beetle specialist but wanted to go on a long run next weekend before he could get me booked in, so did it myself. Sump plug did the no-tighten routine and came back out with a nice pigtail of alloy swarf at the end. I think I have got away with an extra crush washer but what a twot of a job an oil change is on a wasserboxer - sticky out filler, chocolate sump and that rat trap number plate thing that wants to guillotine your fingers. On top of all this the hatch struts decide they cant be bothered to hold the tail gate up any more and dropped it on my head...Reading this thread I now realise that I cannot simply replace the sump either. I dont trust my shakey drilling to replace an insert so it will be a garage job. Right, I am going back to my Morris Minor now for a bit of in-line four front engined therapy....

[mercrocker]

Just a happy update, postponed a trip to Norfolk last weekend cos I was not sure that the sump plug would hold despite appearing to be oil tight. Got an insert fitted at a local transmission specialist (who did my gearbox a couple of years ago). All good again now, the van has had over 3 grand of bodywork during the winter and I spent happy hours last night putting all our gear back in and now we are all good to go. Happy camping everybody its van time again!!!