t25 1.9 petrol cutting out

[kevtherev]

just work through them one at a time and you'll find it
good luck

remember were here to answer anything you find... please ask

[nexttouseless2012]

First post, so here go's!

HELP PLEASE (thought that would be a good place to start!)

I've got the exact same problem. 1985 with 1.9 DG petrol, but runs it all the time on LPG.
3 weeks ago, 3 miles into journey engine just cut out and died. had to leave it overnight and started fine in the morning. Problem re-occured 3 times in a week so changed leads, distributor cap and arm. seemed fine and ran without issue for 2 weeks, until Monday when the same thing happened. Changed coil and ingnition amp (i think that's what it's called, it's the little thing bolted to body in rear left of engine bay with lead to coil), seemed ok........until last night when happened again. left overnight, but now won't start at all

My next target was the fuel side, but a bit confused as the problem is occuring when running on gas and petrol, so doesn't suggest a fuel supply issue- i assume??

Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.

[kevtherev]

when it happens again check for a spark at the king lead.
if no spark, your hall sender might be about to die

[nexttouseless2012]

Thanks Kev, appreciate the advice.
Just spent another hour trying to get it to go but to no avail, (fitted new air filter).
Without wanting to sound next to useless, i assume the king lead is the one from the coil to the distributor cap?
is there any other way to check the hall sender before i go and spend another £60, having already spent over £250 trying to sort it.

[kevtherev]

i assume the king lead is the one from the coil to the distributor cap?

yup.
as the coil is new and the correct one then no spark is attributed to the hall sender trigger

[nexttouseless2012]

that's great Kev thanks for the help. presume the internet based supplier who specialises in supplying only to Kampers is best place to get a reflacement?

[kevtherev]

use a quality supplier like Brickwerks, don't use JK for anything important.

BE SURE THAT THE HALL SENDER IS AT FAULT, these items cannot be returned and cost a lot of money.
Try to swap it out with a known good one first

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=122" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[nexttouseless2012]

Really appreciate the advice

Cheers

[kevtherev]

Bye the way you have cleaned the coil earth I trust?
and the engine earth

[nexttouseless2012]

Another job for the morning! once i have towed it back home of course.

[nexttouseless2012]

Right, more confusion!!
Towed van home yesterday morning after it wouldn't start again. just checked if i have a spark from the king lead and seemed fine, connected lead back onto distributor and she fired up first turn. Not sure what to do next.

To summarise.......van cuts out and dies when up to temperature and then can't be started until next day (generally). fitted new HT leads, new distributor cap and rotor arm, new coil, new air filter, and new ignition amplifier. problem happens when running on either gas or petrol, and there is a good spark from coil (although i have only checked this when the van was cold)

Anyone got any ideas???

[nexttouseless2012]

Hiya mate, im having the same problem with my t25, I was wondering if you
came to any conclusion, I've tried virtually everything so far mentioned,
any advice would be much appreciated, like you want to get back to enjoying
my van. Cheers James

Sorry but i can't affer any particular solution. The van has been ok for the last 4 days, but i'm not yet convinced it is sorted. I 'll list below a bit of history and hope it helps;

4 weeks ago started cutting out and dying after a few miles from cold as though being starved of fuel.(not convinced it is a fuel issue though as it does it on both lpg and petrol). would start fine the next morning.
Changed leads, distributor cap and rotor arm and seemed fine for 2 weeks.

Then started doing it again, so changed the coil and the ignition amplifier (bit bolted to rear left of engine bay near the coil). Seemed fine for a week.

Then started doing it again. This time wouldn't start the next morning. towed it home and left for a day.

Changed the air filter (which hadn't been changed for 4 years and was pretty mucky). Checked for a spark from king lead from coil as kevtherev had suggested it could be the 'hall sender' breaking down in the distributor. Spark was fine, connected king lead back onto distributor and fired up without any problem.

Ran it on the drive for 20min to get it nice and hot, expected it to break down so i could again check for a spark but it didn't. took it for a 6 mile run with no problems.

4 days later and it is still running fine - although certainly hasn't regained my confidence and waiting for it to break down at any point. Hopefully i will be proved wrong!!

Sorry i can't offer a definate solution, but i like to think the new air filter may have helped. If anyone else has a view on this possible solution I'd be grateful to hear

Cheers, Gareth

[Andythesweep]

Hi,

I have just bought a T25. It have a 1.9 petrol engine in it that was reconditioned 2000 miles ago. It has had a new mechanical fuel pump, plugs, leads and the dizzy cap and rotor arm all look good.

It runs really smooth from start up and then a few miles down the road cuts out. Its like its looses fuel or spark as it doesn't misfiring .. just dies ..

It then won't start again for 5 minutes bu if you leave it it fires up perfectly and drives great ..

So far I plan to try a new coil and change the fuel filter.

Does anyone else have any ideas or experienced similar problems?

Hi everyone,I have exactly the same symptoms as hives described,been searching the forum for a solution but no luck so far,would be really grateful for any help

[ajsimmo]

Had a van in at the shack doing similar things, traced it to melted/broken wires in the loom from ignition amplifier to dizzy where it lies on top of the engine. Ran fine cold, then misfired and cut out when hot due to expansion in the loom. I cut out the damaged section and remade connections with heat shrink connectors, ran perfect after that. Try the wiggle test - moving the loom around/up & down with it running to see if you can cause it to cut out. If so, there's your problem.
Have also seen the wires in the dizzy (from plug on side) chafed and broken inside, where they bend tight under the rotor, causing similar symptoms. Another with intermittent cutting out was a faulty ignition switch. Clue to this one was when it cut out/didn't start, the charge and oil lights on the dash didn't come on.

[kevtherev]

Welcome to the forum Andythesweep

you can start by telling us what you've done already... and have you done any of the suggested fixes