Kevtherevagon
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Re: Kevtherevagon
if that is 'fairly basic stuff' then I would hate to think what complicated stuff is!
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Re: Kevtherevagon
Oh believe me that is basic honest.these vans dont have anything I would class as complex in that respect.
mm
mm

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Re: Kevtherevagon
Well a decent afternoon
for once Im gratefull that the previous repairer did a bit of a bodge, as the wing was only held on with a few tacks, here is the tear that had been brazed up

seams pointless.
anyhow 1st trial fit of the wing, hopeless,

same top

this is with the wing hard up against the rear 1/4 so something is going to have to give
This panal is as is often the case some several mm too long, so I have done a few things
and got it something like

the flannge part that sticks into the area where the seal goes is normal and is easy enough to remove, too much is better than if it was too short, the main thing is to get it to sit in to the pillar,

same here,its just fitting in good enough, you can have a little lateral lee way here but be mindfull not to weld till the slider is fitted and you can confirm the width of the gap and also makeing sure the door and wing are flush with each other
this shows the gap to the face of the pillar

this is the trial fit of the wing over the inner wing


this is it welded, I have drilled it for puddle welding and this is the order it was originaly done, it also makes for a neater job , it also helps if the metal behind is shiny and not rusty rotten ! the pen marks show what I have to remove to make it neat and fit how I want
this is now welded, the tacks are holding the inner wing to the inner frame and this is sandwiched by the load bed part and also welded from the otherside

I think this gives a better idea

this is the top side and the welds are visible along the top

rear 1/4 fitted and ground off, its important to create a little spring in the panal so that when welded its keeps it shape and when depressed it springs back into place, at the same time i have kept the weld area slightly depressed so I will have a couple of mm of depth of lead.the area to the front where it meets the wing and the same at the rear i will do with gas as I want a very neat fine seam.

shortened wing clamped

lines all seem to be within whats acceptable

so thats about it for the day, oh and yes mig is used heres a picky of the old thing,

I got it built with preset soft start and it has a massive transformer and a good bank of capacitors and a very good wire feed system, weighs a ton, well not quite, found the invoice
790 +vat in 1985
got it to replace a very much loved boc murex that ceased to function..
mm
for once Im gratefull that the previous repairer did a bit of a bodge, as the wing was only held on with a few tacks, here is the tear that had been brazed up

seams pointless.


same top

this is with the wing hard up against the rear 1/4 so something is going to have to give
This panal is as is often the case some several mm too long, so I have done a few things


the flannge part that sticks into the area where the seal goes is normal and is easy enough to remove, too much is better than if it was too short, the main thing is to get it to sit in to the pillar,

same here,its just fitting in good enough, you can have a little lateral lee way here but be mindfull not to weld till the slider is fitted and you can confirm the width of the gap and also makeing sure the door and wing are flush with each other
this shows the gap to the face of the pillar

this is the trial fit of the wing over the inner wing


this is it welded, I have drilled it for puddle welding and this is the order it was originaly done, it also makes for a neater job , it also helps if the metal behind is shiny and not rusty rotten ! the pen marks show what I have to remove to make it neat and fit how I want
this is now welded, the tacks are holding the inner wing to the inner frame and this is sandwiched by the load bed part and also welded from the otherside

I think this gives a better idea

this is the top side and the welds are visible along the top

rear 1/4 fitted and ground off, its important to create a little spring in the panal so that when welded its keeps it shape and when depressed it springs back into place, at the same time i have kept the weld area slightly depressed so I will have a couple of mm of depth of lead.the area to the front where it meets the wing and the same at the rear i will do with gas as I want a very neat fine seam.

shortened wing clamped

lines all seem to be within whats acceptable

so thats about it for the day, oh and yes mig is used heres a picky of the old thing,

I got it built with preset soft start and it has a massive transformer and a good bank of capacitors and a very good wire feed system, weighs a ton, well not quite, found the invoice
790 +vat in 1985

mm

- pocolow
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Re: Kevtherevagon
Very impressive Mike are the earlier vans prone to rust more? , than the later ones with improved body protection.
Mark
Mark

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Re: Kevtherevagon
metalmick8y wrote:Oh believe me that is basic honest.these vans dont have anything I would class as complex in that respect.
mm
A classic Mike undersell

What he means (probably) is the skills of steel fabrication, mig welding, gas welding and leading are pretty basic skills for good panel & paint guy and especially so compared to some of the other custom fabrication stuff he has done in aluminium etc (and probably loads of other things he never tells us about

The problem is, whilst the skills are "basic", very few individuals or 'shops are willing to put the time and effort in to apply those skills properly and consistently. Those that are probably see this as more of an artisan thing than a day job to earn money to pay the mortgage (although that no doubt helps

As a result these "basic" skills applied in this way are quite rare and thats what makes them special.
In Mike's case what makes him special is his willingness to share his knowledge both "on and off air" and put as much energy into documenting this stuff as he does doing it.
And that makes life a whole heck of a lot easier for people like me and others who are learning and replicating (as best as we can) the application of "basic" skills

(Eulogy over, you can come out from behind the sofa now Mike

Cheers,
MM (the other one!)
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- keith
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Re: Kevtherevagon
very interesting to see this all starting to come good....as just been said...it takes time and effort to document this stuff...as well as actually doing the work.
looks like he's building a new van.
looks like he's building a new van.
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Re: Kevtherevagon

Aye I suppose you sum it up really, I have the spare time to do this, and its as easy to me as say a nurse giving a jab or an IT personputting a web site together neither of which I would have a clue about hence my dumb questions on such matters and I really am gratefull for the replies on and of air ! and the fact that I dont get slagged for it.
I lokk at it this way , doing the job is a pleasure and its nice to experiment with different ways of doing the same task, only way to find the best way,
taking pickies is what, 10 minutes in total maximum per day, including taking camera out of cover, posting up takes what 20 mins on an evening when the other screen is doing other work and the idiot lantern is being foolish and the cans are on with decent sounds etc the longest bit is the uploading and editing.
I do stuff in my way and its there for others to decide if you want to do it that way or not, if it helps or gives an idea then Im happy, there is nothting worse than trying to do a job and being stuck with nobody to ask, i worry that too many picks are posted as it can get boring and sort of same-y ,new word, but all of us that post and read are part of what contributes to the good of the site as a whole and most other folk in various trades on here all offer the same help.
spent the day adding to the vets summer holliday , our dogs ok now but a rotten day.
more fun tommorow, long preamble over
mm
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Re: Kevtherevagon
Well, gave the new metal some protection, and will tape up and seam seal when this has dried, it should then look a little better and blend in

nice that some parts are sort of finnished

the rear wing is proving a pig to fit, not only was it way too long but its more like a reject second or at least I would hope it is.
I have fitted it to the c post and some areas are fixed as in the lower sill/jp but its way proud when the slider is fitted


I have taped it and to aid me I have marked the distance between the outer skin and the root of the post , I need to move it in by 8-9mm this is with the door fitted

so I have reworked the flange at the top and bottom and now got it to within 1mm, hard to show in the picky

so has anbody out there got a JK and or a schofield rear wing , it dont matter which but I would like both and could you measure the width or length from left to right about 2 inches down from the top, ta
mm

nice that some parts are sort of finnished

the rear wing is proving a pig to fit, not only was it way too long but its more like a reject second or at least I would hope it is.
I have fitted it to the c post and some areas are fixed as in the lower sill/jp but its way proud when the slider is fitted


I have taped it and to aid me I have marked the distance between the outer skin and the root of the post , I need to move it in by 8-9mm this is with the door fitted

so I have reworked the flange at the top and bottom and now got it to within 1mm, hard to show in the picky

so has anbody out there got a JK and or a schofield rear wing , it dont matter which but I would like both and could you measure the width or length from left to right about 2 inches down from the top, ta
mm
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Re: Kevtherevagon
Thats a terrible panel. Got to be a reject for sure. 

JRP Automotive welding,bodywork, resprays, servicing and repair.
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Re: Kevtherevagon
metalmick8y wrote: i worry that too many picks are posted as it can get boring and sort of same-y ,
Definately no need to worry about too many pics, I can assure you we don't mind!
The funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it!
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Re: Kevtherevagon
metalmick8y wrote: so has anbody out there got a JK and or a schofield rear wing , it dont matter which but I would like both and could you measure the width or length from left to right about 2 inches down from the top, ta
mm
Do you mean the tall arch panel under the sliding door rail? If so, I have a JK one sitting here patiently waiting for someone to fit it. I have been worrying about how I;m going to align it with the sliding door, which also has a dent in it to make things even trickier!
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
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Re: Kevtherevagon
yes thats the panal, could you measure it for me when you get a minute,
I will detail the fitting and alignment of this over the next few days , I know the one I have is pants but after I have made the panal to what it should be then it will be a simple fitting,
cheers
mm
I will detail the fitting and alignment of this over the next few days , I know the one I have is pants but after I have made the panal to what it should be then it will be a simple fitting,
cheers
mm
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Re: Kevtherevagon
Measurement of the new JK panel is 1159mm...thats measured about two inches down, along the swage line just at the top of the flat expanse of panel (hard to put into words!)
I also stuck a tape on the old one thats still on the van and its the same or maybe one mm less.
I also stuck a tape on the old one thats still on the van and its the same or maybe one mm less.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
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Re: Kevtherevagon
hmm im 1166mm
Well extra bit of repair on this disaster side

made it in one piece for badness

removing the osr wing the quick way

just stick a half mil cutting disc in and slice the top half of to this size
doing this gives you good access to the lips that you need to remove


next cut just inside the inner wing ,this saves wasting time unpicking spots and saves damaging the inner if ,hopefully its still ok
the yellow area is the underside of the seam which is why its hards to get all the rust out when prepping as this goes 1/2 " in

spot weeld cutteing is laborious so I just notch either side of the spots

then lift of and all thats then needed is a run over with the grinder , a worn out flap type disc is ideal

Back to the n/s
I have temp fitted the wing and got it so its as good as I can and then I have scribed under the wheelarch and also over it so when I remove the wing I have a mrk showing the position of the inner, I now weld a lip to the outer wing and arrange it so that it will fit UNDER the vans inner wing,

doing it this way has the benefit of enabling you to do the tacks on the bottom slope of the artificial seam and so prevent warping and unsightly bumps on the outer side
this shows the extent of the show through on the outer side


these usually just need a quick touch with a flexpad
held in place,

I now have burnproof brass collars on the fasteners ,(ta james
) so tommorow it will be a welding on and finnish then sort the osr
mm

Well extra bit of repair on this disaster side

made it in one piece for badness

removing the osr wing the quick way

just stick a half mil cutting disc in and slice the top half of to this size
doing this gives you good access to the lips that you need to remove


next cut just inside the inner wing ,this saves wasting time unpicking spots and saves damaging the inner if ,hopefully its still ok
the yellow area is the underside of the seam which is why its hards to get all the rust out when prepping as this goes 1/2 " in

spot weeld cutteing is laborious so I just notch either side of the spots

then lift of and all thats then needed is a run over with the grinder , a worn out flap type disc is ideal

Back to the n/s
I have temp fitted the wing and got it so its as good as I can and then I have scribed under the wheelarch and also over it so when I remove the wing I have a mrk showing the position of the inner, I now weld a lip to the outer wing and arrange it so that it will fit UNDER the vans inner wing,

doing it this way has the benefit of enabling you to do the tacks on the bottom slope of the artificial seam and so prevent warping and unsightly bumps on the outer side
this shows the extent of the show through on the outer side


these usually just need a quick touch with a flexpad
held in place,

I now have burnproof brass collars on the fasteners ,(ta james

mm