Headlight relay upgrade info needed

[syncroandy]

Thx. however I can't claim any originality, Baxter used to do a kit using all VW parts, which I've basically just re-engineered.

[California Dreamin]

Well I've looked high and wide on 'The samba' website for this particular mod.....Can't see it anywhere, I would be very interested in some pictures etc.

Martin

[scottbott]

try this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... c12a6c46a2

[Plasticman]

I envy the quality of the pickies
mm

[Timwhy]

I used this write up when I upgraded my headlights and added the relays. Really easy to follow and the brighter headlights make all the difference.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ight+relay" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Probably not good for you in England are the more powerful beams that I put in. I went to an off road truck supply company to get my new lights. They are not leagal for street use but I only ever seem to drive on back winding roads at night with my Westy, I don't believe that I have blinded anyone as they are still projected out of the original lenses.

[California Dreamin]

The more I read the better this alternative looks.
The only two reservations I have are:
. This mod still uses the original electrical harness to the lamps....25 year old wiring that could be a little tired.
. If you do this I would advise using a 40amp relay on the full beam for longevity.

As with all things electrical... 'connections' spades etc need to be 100% sound (best crimped with proper electrical crimping tool) the ratchet variety OR better still, soldered. Whatever you do..absolutely no Scotch-Loc type connectors.

Martin

[syncroandy]

The 'Terry Kay' kit on the above Samba link looks very similar to the way I did it, but he has those extra unnecessary male/female terminals to hook it up. With the pukka VW holders the 1/4" female terminal simply snaps right in, so that extra in-line connection isn't needed. Agree with your reservations Martin, the existing wiring must be OK, and terminations must be done correctly.

E D I T: actually as the wire from the switch needs a little extra on the end I can see why he made the kit like that, not all will want to be soldering.

[Timwhy]

The 'Terry Kay' kit on the above Samba link looks very similar to the way I did it, but he has those extra unnecessary male/female terminals to hook it up. With the pukka VW holders the 1/4" female terminal simply snaps right in, so that extra in-line connection isn't needed. Agree with your reservations Martin, the existing wiring must be OK, and terminations must be done correctly.

E D I T: actually as the wire from the switch needs a little extra on the end I can see why he made the kit like that, not all will want to be soldering.

When I did my relay upgrade I made my own kit. I ordered the relay pigtails from VW and had to put in my own spade connectors and wires. Just like you have mentioned. I was pretty shocked as to the price of these two items. $15/apiece! Wow! Almost worth their weight in gold? Anyway, I also used the 40 amp realys from FLAP's and they were maybe $5/each and the wire, well I've had plenty of wire from other projects.

I feel that the expense of the total project, plus new more powerful beams is well worth it. It seems like cheap insurance too, for the headlight switch to not have all the current flowing through it to the headlights. Maybe this will prolong its life and I won't have to be in the market for a new one.

[Cruz]

I've had 30 amp relays on my mainbeam and dipped beam for over 4 years with no problems.

[syncroandy]

Your local 'pick and pull' is your friend ! Round here anyway they are full of VAG cars laden with useful high-quality parts, which can be had for pennies. In fact most German cars will have similar relays.

[Timwhy]

Your local 'pick and pull' is your friend ! Round here anyway they are full of VAG cars laden with useful high-quality parts, which can be had for pennies. In fact most German cars will have similar relays.

Around here there is no such thing as a Pick 'n Pull, nobody is left unattended in the Gold Mine

[Cruz]

Same here. No such thing as a 'wander around' scrapyard anymore

[Plasticman]

come visit me and I will take you to a couple of very good yards that you can do a you want and a crane and cutting gear are to hand,that said they are getting scarce as you say and more of them are turning into upmarket 'halfords'
mm

[tannera34]

I am aware I may have slaughtered several sacred cows along the way and I may have committed electical heresy as I left the fuseboard and relay board completely alone. We use the existing wiring, relays and switches in the van and just use the feed AT the headlights to pull additional relays behind the lights to give full voltage at the lights from a heavy feed direct from the battery.

We have a Westy Joket 86 T25 1.6td jx (square lights)

I ran a 10mm section copper cable straight from the battery with a 25A in line fuse to behind the headlight cover panel at the front of the Van. Excessive but limits the voltage drop and allows for future expansion (an extra 4 rally specials across the front perhaps?!).

This runs to two 40A relays and goes to the switched input on the relays.

The negative switching side of the two relays is run to a seperate earthing point created on the bodywork (loads of choice once the cover panel is off choose something sensible). I also cut the negative wires on the headlight units (The negative daisy chains across the bulb holders) and wired those into the same earth.

Each positive switching side of the relay is fed by either the feed for the main beam or the dipped beam (find them, cut to headlight unit and feed to relay). The switched output from the relay is then wired to the appropriate headlights.

Take care that all wiring is rated at over 25A and as it is wiring if you dont know what you are doing check with someone that does - incorrect wiring leads to fires! (saying that I might still get told off for not using the fusepanel!)

We also swapped the lights for Phillips Extreme Brightness before the wiring mod (made no difference before the wiring change)

Takes about 2-3 hours start to finish, with another half hour to secure all the connections with electrical tape to seal against moisture and shorting.

Best thing we did on the van - massive difference driving at night - we have gone from not seeing anything to better than my Z4 lights. Epic.

[tannera34]

I am aware I may have slaughtered several sacred cows along the way and I may have committed electical heresy as I left the fuseboard and relay board completely alone. We use the existing wiring, relays and switches in the van and just use the feed AT the headlights to pull additional relays behind the lights to give full voltage at the lights from a heavy feed direct from the battery.

We have a Westy Joket 86 T25 1.6td jx (square lights)

I ran a 10mm section copper cable straight from the battery with a 25A in line fuse to behind the headlight cover panel at the front of the Van. Excessive but limits the voltage drop and allows for future expansion (an extra 4 rally specials across the front perhaps?!).

This runs to two 40A relays and goes to the switched input on the relays.

The negative switching side of the two relays is run to a seperate earthing point created on the bodywork (loads of choice once the cover panel is off choose something sensible). I also cut the negative wires on the headlight units (The negative daisy chains across the bulb holders) and wired those into the same earth.

Each positive switching side of the relay is fed by either the feed for the main beam or the dipped beam (find them, cut to headlight unit and feed to relay). The switched output from the relay is then wired to the appropriate headlights.

Take care that all wiring is rated at over 25A and as it is wiring if you dont know what you are doing check with someone that does - incorrect wiring leads to fires! (saying that I might still get told off for not using the fusepanel!)

We also swapped the lights for Phillips Extreme Brightness before the wiring mod (made no difference before the wiring change)

Takes about 2-3 hours start to finish, with another half hour to secure all the connections with electrical tape to seal against moisture and shorting.

Best thing we did on the van - massive difference driving at night - we have gone from not seeing anything to better than my Z4 lights. Epic.