Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

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waltraud
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Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

Post by waltraud »

Just got a new rear silencer box from brickwerks and have taken old syatenm apart, cleaned copper slipper bolts etc and put back together loosely, what i'm thinking is that loosly done up the intermediate pipe is a bit off the joint to the silencer so am thinking - is it best to tighten up this connection between intermediate and back box first and then tighten up the saddles or not. The sadlles themselevs look like there is room for a little play to that they can be slightly udjustd - i think horizontally but not sure. I suppose if i did the saddles fist and then the abck box and intermediate pipe dont line up properly i would be stressing that joint if i tried to tighen it all to 'bring together'. Any advice on a way forward that won't stress pipes too much or create unnecessary vibrations....cheers.
1983 1.9 Ivory Westy Joker

California Dreamin
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Re: Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

Post by California Dreamin »

I fitted mine recently and you are right...there is lots of movement. My experience was to level the silencer up with the rear vallance and make sure the distances either side of the sadles are the same and this way it looks right from the back. Another observation was the position 'radially' which effects the tail pipe position. Be careful not to allow the tail pipe to face down at too great an angle otherwise two things happen; the tail pipe can catch the floor on a steep drive etc..and..it doesn't leave enough space for the intermediate pipe (distance from knuckle to silencer gets smaller). The best I can describe it is: the tail pipe needs to point at between 8 and 8.30 o'clock looking from the offside.
The intermediate pipe is olived to the knuckle so can be tightened without stressing any joints.

Martin
Last edited by California Dreamin on 11 Jan 2012, 21:00, edited 1 time in total.
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waltraud
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Re: Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

Post by waltraud »

Thanks, that makes sense, Simon also sent a reply from brickwerks saying that they do saddles and straps up nearly tight before making sure all lines up properly and then final tightening. Will fisnish it this sat am, great bit of non rusting metal, like the SS coolant pipes i have with silicone hoses- fit and forget pretty much. Cheers.
1983 1.9 Ivory Westy Joker

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AdrianC
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Re: Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

Post by AdrianC »

When I put ours in the other week, I fitted the saddles & straps to the main cross box loosely, then raised the whole lot up. Then put the link pipe in, and wiggled/rotated the silencer within the saddles until it was right. Then tightened every bolt at one go. About a thousand miles since, and no blows yet. <touches wood, rapidly>

Tailpipe angle and cosmetics of alignment were secondary to everything actually lining up functionally. For some reason, ours sits LH (link pipe side) down compared to the valance - as the old system did, despite new engine mounts.
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fairwynds
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Re: Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

Post by fairwynds »

waltraud wrote:Thanks, that makes sense, Simon also sent a reply from brickwerks saying that they do saddles and straps up nearly tight before making sure all lines up properly and then final tightening. Will fisnish it this sat am, great bit of non rusting metal, like the SS coolant pipes i have with silicone hoses- fit and forget pretty much. Cheers.

...excuse the hijack - but where did you get your S/S pipes and silicone hoses from please? Cheers
FW
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waltraud
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Re: Fiting sequence of stainless WBX silenver

Post by waltraud »

Is ok, stainless pipes 32mm for early DG I got for £100 in just kampers vanfest sale. You can get them of all sorts at Brickwerks. Silicone hoses of all sorts from hose world I think.
1983 1.9 Ivory Westy Joker

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