2.1dj non-starter. Where now?

[silverbullet]

So... have you resistance-checked the temp sensors yet Karl? The values are even in the Haynes

[KarlT]

Bl00dy hell, give us minute! Haven't even looked at it yet!

I'll try & get sometime next week, once I can remember where I put that multimeter thing & then find the instruction manual!

Have got a spare sensor/sender so may just swap it over & see what happens. Doesn't help that bus is outside & its pitch-black by time I get home. Bear with me!

[skippymoss]

I've been glued to this thread as as mine hasn't started well since I got it in the spring
But finally got round to sorting it at the weekend - subsequently been walking about grinning like a numpty
I keep going out to start it to check it wasn't just a fluke!
I spent a couple of hours testing all the bits with a multimeter without finding anything dodgy
In the end all it really needed was;
- cleaning (there was 20 odd years of oily sticky crap all over all the components - I've shied away from getting the engine steam cleaned due to all the old electrics everywhere)
- going through all the connections one by one in a systematic way
- tightening the loose connectors (there were quite a few especially where the system has been broken into to fit the LPG kit)
- brightening up any corroded connectors with emery paper
- a good dousing with WD40 (Is there anything that stuff won't help to fix?)
Should've done the basics at the beginning though I guess!
Now literally one turn of the key and boom - we're away - it's like a new van
I know this probably doesn't help you too much Karl as you've probably done the basics already but Good Luck anyway and let us know when you've cracked it

(Any chance someone competent could volunteer to expand on the Wiki with a step-by-step guide to fault finding of fuel injection systems?
There's some helpful stuff there already and in the Haynes manual, but some more instructions with pics would be even better.
Talking personally I would appreciate things like where to find all the earth connections, how to check circuits and sensors with a multi-meter and the sensible order to do things in.
Would really help us novices as these types of faults cost a bomb at a garage as they take time - like most things it's easy when you know how!)

[KarlT]

Well done Skippy! Feels good don't it!
I've messed around with old VW engines for years & never had one beat me yet, but this is giving me the run around as I have no history of any faults. But progress..............

Something very strange happened today.
first, switched coolant sensor, no difference. Hmmmmmm
Okay, tried starting it by priming pump....Turn key, hear pump & buzzing, but don't start.......Third time I turned key to start and it did.....BUT only running on 2 cylinders again.
Now for the strange bit.........
Went to back & gave the throttle several blips to try & get it running better, All of a sudden, bang, strange noises, & oil/petrol was forced out of the the inlet manifold. Pushed/squirted out under pressure of the rubber joints on the inlet manifold and the buzzy/regulator on top of manifold

Okay, from my understanding, that means the inlet valve is not closing. Agree?

(BTW This is the second time I've heard the strange noise but I was at front & couldn't tell where noise came from before)

[silverbullet]

What kind of strange noises? Was the bang a backfire? This is starting to sound like hanging/gummed valves. Probably bent now anyway!

'tis truly becoming the winter of discontent...

[KarlT]

First time I heard it, (while in drivers seat) Yeah I thought it was a strange back-fire, kind of a roaring noise, I thought unburnt fuel in exhaust burning.
But today, was leant over engine, strange noise, bang/pufftt, oil/petrol squirted out of manifold joint near oil tower & from rubber pipe that connects into bottom of idle speed control valve. Smoke lingered aroud (oil?)
Please remember this is a newish gold recon engine & had good compression when I tested it a couple of weeks (zero mileage) ago.
Stuck valve?
Not set-up correct?

Once more into the breach my friends, once more!!!

[silverbullet]

You haven't got 2 plug leads swapped over by accident in all your tinkering have you? Does sound like the kind of #cough# you'd get from the wrong firing order...

[KarlT]

Hmmmmmm, don't think so, but anythings possible. Will double check. Cheers.

Any other ideas?

[KarlT]

Okay, checked leads, all okay, so not that. Checked timing by putting pulley to TDC & dizzy rotor was pointing at notch, so not that.

Started unravelling some of the loom. Under tape below the round-pin connectors was a crimped straight connector on the red wire. Looks like it had been cut & then reconnected (maybe LPG) anyhow looked alittle dodgy so I guess it is time to learn about multimeters.

Apart from that I couldn't see any other problems. T'is a real mystery, no wonder the PO/garages gave up!!!

[syncrosimon]

Karl, have you done the fuel pressure check. Either with a gauge, or by pulling the injectors and doing the test as per Haynes, Bentley. A leaky injector will flood the engine on start up as the fuel pressure leaks out of an injector into the cylinder head. A backfire can be unburnt fuel related, so this will show up on the plugs as the cylinder in question will be darker than the others.

I have a spare set of injectors that I know are good, or only takes half an hour to swap for some from another of your fine fleet.

Simon.

[KarlT]

Hi Simon.
Cheers for thoughts, (I started another thread on back-fire as the size of this one may put people off reading through) No, haven't got a guage & was by myself so just know injectors are firing petrol into cylinder they didn't appear to be dripping.
There were lots of problems with this engine set-up on collection, bodges done to make it run, things missing, mistakes made. Back-fire is a real puzzle but that aside, I think the non-running must be electrical. Am going to have a look for my multi-meter today.

[KarlT]

Okay, had 3 hours today, looking at it & kicking it (neither did much good).
Ohom tested some of the wiring the I could get too both ends, even dodgey looking connection was good.
Took rocker covers off & looked at valve opening-closes, again looked fine, but no gap like the good-old Aircooled days.
Set-up engine in timing mode, round pins together, vacums blocked etc etc....
Turned over & turned over engine, one or two little splutters, but as good as nothing.
Removed plug & was oily wet, covered in petrol. It is just not getting any spark.
I think timing set-up gets rid of most of the electronic side, I know coil is good, thought dizzy was good, leads & plugs look new.
I have got another dizzy & leads (old but good when used by me last) which I will have ago at fitting.

Any other ideas?

[silverbullet]

Take a look at the points where the lpg was cut into the loom, I had load of grief from the SA 2.6i (faltering idle but only when hot due to a high resistance dry "joint" in the wiring, earth return failure for the controller)
The final repair to the distributor lead was the thing that put it right, an old repair that I'd overlooked: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p7690139" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;