Head Gasket 1.9 DG

[Sugar Spun Sisters]

Ok for you guys in the know, have probably replied to so many head gasket posts
I've been told that both sides of the head gasket are 'seeping'.
What does this mean ie the bigger picture?
I have had the van nearly 2 years, always lose coolant on a trip, not a great deal, I just top up a minimal amount with correct mix anti freeze.
There has been no change in the amount of coolant loss...
The van hasn't overheated since I've owned it, in fact the temperature gauage always reads half and rarely changes, if it does it goes very slightly under.
Ive had starting problems since I've owned the van if it's not used daily, just thought it might be down to a worn/badly set carburettor.
I've had one major service and changed the spark plugs recently...the starting is still a problem.
I do always manage to start it, without resorting to damp start.
Last week I either stalled the van or it cut out...but wouldn't start. I thought I may have flooded the carb, but I don't see how as I wouldn't pump the accelerator.
Once started again, we stopped off at a friends and after returning to the van it wouldn't start for 10 mins after.
Is this due to a problem with the head gasket?

Question, if my head gasket is on its way out, apart from the overheating and coolant loss, what other things/problems should I be looking for?

Other question...if the head gasket does finally go, is it worth getting the garage to sort it at a huge cost, or just bypass this and go for a new engine without even trying to get the head off.
I'm in no way a novice mechanic and certainly could not do this job.

Garage versus new engine?
What are your thoughts?
Thank you kindly.

[Ian Hulley]

Do a search for 'waterjacket seal' that will tell you all you need to know.

Ian

[ghost123uk]

Hi

It is unlikely that the poor starting is anything to do with the gaskets seeping.
Those gaskets that seep are NOT the head gaskets but a large rubber seal between the water jacket on the head and the water jacket on the block.

Here is a thread all about it. = https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=52374" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; long thread but worth reading.

I had it happen 4 years ago and knowing what I do now I would no way have gone down the re-build route, I would have just got a £1000 Elite "re-con" fitted by them, included in the price.

Some folks have used a radiator sealant to delay the inevitable.
K-Seal is the only stuff to use on these engines, do not use the other types !

Question, if my head gasket is on its way out, apart from the overheating and coolant loss, what other things/problems should I be looking for?

That's easy, any garage worth it's salt will be able to use a "CO Sniffer" that detects combustion gasses in the coolant system.
This is a very reliable, quick & cheap way to find out if the actual head gasket is failing.

[kevtherev]

Do you follow the cold start proceedure before turning the key?

[Sugar Spun Sisters]

Thanks you guys...you really know what you're talking about and even though I have limited understanding, the threads on the water jackets and the photos give me at least some idea what I'm dealing with...but very scary to think how complicated it all is and clearly very expensive whichever route.
I suspect the easiest route to go down is to take off one of the heads and see what I'm up against.
In an ideal world wouldn't it just be great to have a new engine for peace of mind...many mechanics appear noit to like working on these engines.
There seems to be the the idea to go down the route of £1000 Elite engine yet in the VW Heritage catalogue they are selling DG engines for £2267.
Whats the big difference here?

Kev the Rev...re cold starting. I've been told numerous ways to cold start my engine, and none seem to work any better than the other. A mechanic once told me the carb spring was a bit worn so before I start it, keep the accelerator pedal open for 5 secs or longer.
As the van is not a daily runner, the longer I don't use him, the worse the starting problem.
If I use him every day, he starts better, but my 'cold start' procedure is always hit and miss.
Kev, what is your 'cold start' procedure?

I'm wondering about the carb or vaccum unit...could this be a problem?

What do you think of the replacement carb/conversion kit for the wbx from SSP? It says it is a direct replacement carb developed by Webcon and is manual choke.
Any thoughts on this?
Thank you gents

[Ian Hulley]

What do you think of the replacement carb/conversion kit for the wbx from SSP? It says it is a direct replacement carb developed by Webcon and is manual choke.
Any thoughts on this?
Thank you gents

There's 10-1 nothing wrong with the Pierburg and 99% of the replacements are not what it says on the tin and will need a rolling road set-up to run anything like correctly. 'Set' the autochoke by pressing the accelerator and letting off the pedal gently BEFORE turning the key but after your daily checks.

Most mechanics know fkall about these vans and engines and just spout carp to sound convincing.

Ian

[kevtherev]

Cold start
depress the accelerator fully once
remove foot from accelerator
turn key and crank.
once the engine fires..and idles fast... use the accelerator and drive away.

thats how it should be done, that's how I start mine.

[Sugar Spun Sisters]

Blimey, if only cold start was that easy!
My method is usually to put my foot down on the accelerator once to activate the choke, then foot down again for about 10-20 seconds before it will fire up.
If it doesn't fire up because it has been sitting for a week, I give it short bursts on the key so as not to drain the battery.
If no luck, I will try the accelerator down again for a bit longer, then short bursts again.
This system hasn't failed me so the engine has always started, but it's rough running for a good minute or so before it idles properly and doesn't cut out.
I know this isn't normal...or is it for some of us?
I've had two full services in three years, had the timing and tune done in between, changed the spark plugs, but it's always the same.
How can I improve on this?
What do you think could be the problem?
That is why I am thinking carb or distributer/vacuum unit.
But maybe it's just me???
What's your humble opinion?

[Ian Hulley]

Blimey, if only cold start was that easy!
My method is usually to put my foot down on the accelerator once to activate the choke, then foot down again for about 10-20 seconds before it will fire up.
If it doesn't fire up because it has been sitting for a week, I give it short bursts on the key so as not to drain the battery.
If no luck, I will try the accelerator down again for a bit longer, then short bursts again.
This system hasn't failed me so the engine has always started, but it's rough running for a good minute or so before it idles properly and doesn't cut out.
I know this isn't normal...or is it for some of us?
I've had two full services in three years, had the timing and tune done in between, changed the spark plugs, but it's always the same.
How can I improve on this?
What do you think could be the problem?
That is why I am thinking carb or distributer/vacuum unit.
But maybe it's just me???
What's your humble opinion?

Start with new plugs, leads, cap and arm .... you have ignition issues.