2.1dj non-starter. Where now?

Post by **KarlT** » 07 Nov 2011, 09:58

I know you know your stuff Aidan, but how can that be right? When one is being primed the other will be on exhaust cycle!

Post by **Aidan** » 07 Nov 2011, 10:16

I know it's not intuiative but believe me that's the way it works, don't forget injectors open and close every few miliseconds, without high speed camera you can't see the pulses, exhaust cycle it may be but the inlet valve is shut so there'a a charge built ready to be drawn in on next induction cycle, at 3000rpm the valves are opening every 0.08 second

Post by **KarlT** » 07 Nov 2011, 11:36

That seems impossible, doesn't it? Its amazing an engine stays together for 10 seconds, let alone 100,000 miles!!!

Fair do's, There goes another theory!!

Back to changing the coil & double checking connectors then.

Post by **silverbullet** » 08 Nov 2011, 13:15

Batch-fired injectors like Digijet/fant are better than carbs, but still pretty wasteful of fuel. Relatively simple, but not too efficient.
That's why I'm convinced that a wbx on closed-loop sequential injection would be a very good idea indeed

and a lot less hassle than going the Fuji Heavy Industries route...

Post by **KarlT** » 09 Nov 2011, 20:00

Had half-hour today between showers, so swapped coil for a good green label one I had.
Had to guess wiring.
Started first time, But didn't like it, bearing in mind the exhaust finishes at the cast knuckle, it ran awful & sounded worst, just like my old Baja Bug!!

Didn't want to start a second time but I'm putting that down to exhaust...Possible?

Great fun trying to get the cast-knuckle off with a hacksaw, half way through, blade blunt!

Post by **toomanytoys** » 09 Nov 2011, 21:04

silverbullet wrote:Batch-fired injectors like Digijet/fant are better than carbs, but still pretty wasteful of fuel. Relatively simple, but not too efficient.
That's why I'm convinced that a wbx on closed-loop sequential injection would be a very good idea indeed and a lot less hassle than going the Fuji Heavy Industries route...

Yes... indeed.....

Especially with the improved wbx...

Post by **silverbullet** » 10 Nov 2011, 16:33

Well, I've got a few bob stashed in the bus fund so maybe time to buy the MS3 kit for some dual map fun?

Dangerously close to a hijack here! As you were, Karl

Post by **KarlT** » 11 Nov 2011, 10:48

Bl00dy Cheek!! Clear off.

Well just got the cast knuckle off & punched the rusted bolts out. Hard yakker with a half blunt hacksaw.
Will flap-disk the edges & get lovely new bolts/gaskets fitted ASAP. So that will be another factor/issue removed.

Post by **KarlT** » 14 Nov 2011, 15:02

Okay, Good & bad news... Exhaust back together & leak free!

It starts, ticks-over, advances & all sorts.

But it ain't right.......

At tick-over (800rpm), a quick blip of the throttle & it splutters, half-stalls. give abit more & it will rev away quite happy. Take your foot off & the revs drop but hover around 1200rpm before then dropping on down to tick-over.

Air-leak?

Post by **silverbullet** » 14 Nov 2011, 15:32

That's an air leak. WD40 time!

Post by **KarlT** » 15 Nov 2011, 20:41

Arrgggghhhhhh!

Wouldn't start again. Eventually did but only running on 2 (maybe 3) cylinders.

So starting symtoms (putting possible airleak aside for now).
When cold. Really doesn't want to start but if it does, runs poorly, maybe on two. Give it gas & it'll probably stall.
As it starts to warm. Runs better & will rev. Sounds like on all four.
If warm, I can stop it & restart no problem.

Can it only be leads or plugs? I think I've changed everything else. I didn't change these as they are very new looking & was recently serviced by PO/garage. Maybe I've been foolish & asumed they were right/good.

What plug codes should be fitted?

Post by **silverbullet** » 15 Nov 2011, 21:21

ECU doesn't know the engine is cold so back to the temp sensors? Plugs won't make that much difference unless they are a really "cold" racing grade. They would foul when cold but pretty unlikely to have been fitted.
If the mixture's gone lean than that would explain why it's ok when hot, What state are the plugs in under various conditions i.e stone cold and spluttering - photo, running - photo, hot after a good run etc (assuming you can get it to run that long.

Post by **KarlT** » 15 Nov 2011, 21:42

Cheers for reply Ian.
Another £15 wasted on new tri pin plugs then!!

I'll look into temp senders, haven't touched them yet but I know gauge doesn't work.

Post by **silverbullet** » 16 Nov 2011, 10:44

Triple plugs are sheisse IMHO. They give a longer service interval but an inferior burn. The idea was that as one gap gets too big, the spark would jump to the next easiest/smaller gap. Lots of little sparks instead of one big one?
A proper plug has a single tapered earth electrode, like the original Bosch W7D's. It helps to concentrate the spark energy and doesn't restrict the flame front, so the fuel burns more completely.
But that's not your problem!
Cold start failure means it's ohmmeter time. Or poor continuity/high resistance in the loom/sensor plug.

Post by **KarlT** » 16 Nov 2011, 16:38

I could take them back, haven't fitted them yet & am on quite good terms with the local motor parts shop, as I'm in there so much!!!

From memory, plugs in there are newish WR7DC+.

Will have to learn about those multi-meters things then, much prefer a wire, a clip & a 12v bulb!

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