brake pads

[nicko]

never changed my front pads as only had the old girl for 4 months but now they need changing can any one tell me the correct pads for her please 1980 t25 2ltr air cooled or any one willing to give me a hand to change them
thank in advance nick

[kevtherev]

send the old pads to brickwerks and they will send you back the correct ones.
they could be one of two types ATE or Girling

[California Dreamin]

Just the one size/shape of brake pad for early brakes....doesn't matter it they are ATE or Girling calipers, the pads are the same.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... gory_id=47" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Martin

[kevtherev]

Thanks for clearing that up Martin
I wrongly assumed as the calliper is different.. the pad would be

[nicko]

thanks for that lads next question are they ease to change

[kevtherev]

yes..
follow the haynes guide

[California Dreamin]

Remove the speedo binnacle cover and plastic membrane to access the brake resevoir.
Remove the resevoir cap (unplug the level sensor) You will need to wrap a good amount of rag around the resevoir just in case it over flows when pushing back the pistons or better still, get some paper towel and soak up some of the excess fluid (if it has been filled to the brim) CAUTION* do not get any of the fluid on your paint work.
Slacken wheel bolts
Lift van
Put on axle stands
Remove wheels
Turn steering on full lock to access each caliper.
Pull out the G clicps (if Girling type) and punch out the pins note* (they only come out one way)
Use a pair of plumbers pipe grips and force the pads against each piston to allow clearance that you will need to remove each brake pad.
Once the pads are removed use something blunt (like a 3/8th drive extension) to force the pistons ALL the way back into the caliper housing CAUTION* not to damage the rubber dust covers on the pistons.
Clean up the channels where the pads sit in the calipers (a bit of emery cloth around a flat file will do this) you are just cleaning off the crud not making the channel bigger lol.
De-scale the brake discs (removing any loose rust etc) clean the pins with emery cloth (the new pads should slide in the gap easily and without force...they should move freely)
Apply Coppaslip or Plastilube to the pins/edges and back of the new pads/on the anti-squeel shims (if it has them) all the moving surfaces where the pads sit but being very careful to avoid lubing the friction surfaces themselves.
Rebuild with the new pads trapping the spring plate and knocking the pins all the way (refitting the G clips if Girling) ) and just make sure the pins go all the way so the spring clip ends (ATE type) enter their holes.... it is obvious.
Refit the wheels and tighten diagnally, torque to 180NM once on the floor.
PUMP the brake pedal several times BEFORE driving to set the pads against the disks.
New pads on old discs will take several hundred miles to bed in/form the shape of the old discs. In the meantime, don't over-heat the brakes with excessively prolonged hard braking.
Remember to change your brake fluid every two years irrespective of mileage (brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water from the surrounding air) just 3% water contamination by volume will lower the brake fluids boiling point by 100 degrees C and lead to vapour lock (the fluid boiling and total loss of your brakes)

Martin