14" Syncro front wheel bearings

[PetenAli]

I am going to have to fit longer studs for my front wheels to accommodate the early 90s Audi rims that I now have eight of (plenty of spares for when I wipe some out in the Picos at the end of October!)

With the help of Mr Baxter earlier today I've worked out that in order to fit the longer studs I am going to have to pull the hub off and destroy the bearings which will then have to be replaced.

I have checked out the Wiki and see that it is waiting for a "how to" on replacing Syncro front wheel bearings. I've also looked at other websites e.g. http://www.vanagon.com/syncros/index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and can't find any other info. Even Bentley is a bit reticent on the subject as far as I can see. I've also done a search on here and all the threads that come come up seem to make it sound on a par with replacing a Syncro fuel tank! I can see that it is going to take a hydraulic press but that's OK as I have access to one.

Does anyone have any links to info on the procedure for doing this? If not, would it be useful if I take loads of pics and try to write it up for the Wiki? As you will have guessed by now I'm both new to Syncros and not an engineer of any sort but have been playing with VWs for 30 + years and do know a bit about them.

Any advice or pointers very gratefully received.

Thanks very much.

[syncropaddy]

I did this job 18 months ago and its no real biggie in the sense that its similar to replacing most bearings but you will need a press and the right sized mandrels to remove and replace the bearings. The studs too are simple enough but again a press is needed not simply to remove the old studs but specifically to push in the new ones. You will need at least 4 tonnes on the press to o this job

Pressing the old ones out

Pressing the new ones in

Job done

[PetenAli]

Thanks very much Syncropaddy. I've done the studs on the back already so I'm OK with that bit and its the front bearings that are a bit different to anything that I've done before - in my limited experience on VWs (Beetles mostly) I've never needed to use a press to change bearings. Still you make it sound straightforward so I'll get on to Brickwerks for the bits.

I've got one further question thats just occurred... looking at Bentley it seems as if the whole bearing housing must come off to press the bearings out and replace them. Is that right?

Will probably replace the discs and pads while I'm at it. Both are quite worn (although not at their limit) and I want them in good condition for the Picos.

Thanks again,

Pete

[jed the spread]

You would hate working with me Andrew, i removed my studs with a quick strike of a big hammer.

jed

[syncropaddy]

You would hate working with me Andrew, i removed my studs with a quick strike of a big hammer.

jed

How did you put the new ones back in....?

Its easy enough to remove the wheel bearing housing, Pete, but it has to come off and you shouldn't need to re track your steering by doing that.

[poshbuggers]

I have the same job to do with mine. The Merc rims I have are quite thick so its either spacers or longer studs.

Still, at least by doing it this way you get refurbed parts in the bargain. I'm tempted to stump up and get Futbus on the job nd incorporate a brake upgrade at the same time.

PetenAli - I read you are fitting early 80s Audi rims? They wouldn't be the very flat faced Audi 100/200 ones shown below that I am searching for would they?

[PetenAli]

PetenAli - I read you are fitting early 80s Audi rims? They wouldn't be the very flat faced Audi 100/200 ones shown below that I am searching for would they?

The very same! Picked them up on fleabay about three weeks ago after looking for over a year. 6J ET45. Already had 4 on our Syncro and now have some spares. It means I can do the wheel rotation now because the people who sold us the Syncro gave us a 15" steel spare with a 205 tyre on it (Audi rims have 215s on them) which is no good for anything except putting on the rears to tighten up the hub nut. It would have ruined the 4WD if I'd used it.

Also learnt the hard way that when you get these Audi rims you have get the centre hole taken out to about 68mm to clear the rear hub nut and the collars on the front hubs.

[jed the spread]

You would hate working with me Andrew, i removed my studs with a quick strike of a big hammer.

jed

How did you put the new ones back in....?

Its easy enough to remove the wheel bearing housing, Pete, but it has to come off and you shouldn't need to re track your steering by doing that.

They went straight in and a little wield was put on the back to keep them in place.

jed

[PetenAli]

Its easy enough to remove the wheel bearing housing, Pete, but it has to come off and you shouldn't need to re track your steering by doing that.

Brilliant - thanks again Syncropaddy. Will get on to it now.

Saw Jed's comment and even Mr Baxter talks about use of a hammer on his "how to" but as I'm going to get the bearings pressed out I might as well get the studs done at the same time.

Cheers,

Pete

[poshbuggers]

PetenAli - I read you are fitting early 80s Audi rims? They wouldn't be the very flat faced Audi 100/200 ones shown below that I am searching for would they?

The very same! Picked them up on fleabay about three weeks ago after looking for over a year. 6J ET45. Already had 4 on our Syncro and now have some spares. It means I can do the wheel rotation now because the people who sold us the Syncro gave us a 15" steel spare with a 205 tyre on it (Audi rims have 215s on them) which is no good for anything except putting on the rears to tighten up the hub nut. It would have ruined the 4WD if I'd used it.

Also learnt the hard way that when you get these Audi rims you have get the centre hole taken out to about 68mm to clear the rear hub nut and the collars on the front hubs.

Great. I'm going to get some, somehow. They're perfect (apart from the machining) for a Syncro IMO. Any pics of yours fitted?

[lhd]

You would hate working with me Andrew, i removed my studs with a quick strike of a big hammer.

jed

Same here, and used the nuts to pull them back in.
Rob.

[syncropaddy]

They went straight in and a little wield was put on the back to keep them in place.

jed

Hmmmm mine took 6 tonnes to press them in ............

[PetenAli]

PetenAli - I read you are fitting early 80s Audi rims? They wouldn't be the very flat faced Audi 100/200 ones shown below that I am searching for would they?

The very same! Picked them up on fleabay about three weeks ago after looking for over a year. 6J ET45. Already had 4 on our Syncro and now have some spares. It means I can do the wheel rotation now because the people who sold us the Syncro gave us a 15" steel spare with a 205 tyre on it (Audi rims have 215s on them) which is no good for anything except putting on the rears to tighten up the hub nut. It would have ruined the 4WD if I'd used it.

Also learnt the hard way that when you get these Audi rims you have get the centre hole taken out to about 68mm to clear the rear hub nut and the collars on the front hubs.

Great. I'm going to get some, somehow. They're perfect (apart from the machining) for a Syncro IMO. Any pics of yours fitted?

Heres a thread with some pics:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=82735" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'll put some more up tomorrow. I agree with you - they seem pretty good for a 14" Syncro. They don't affect the gearing too much either.

[poshbuggers]

Yes, they're awesome

[futbus]

If you want to bring the van up to us, then we can have the bearing changed and longer studs at the same time. Also longer studs fitted in the rear to match the fronts. Sometimes you need more than a few ton of force to get the old ones out than fitting the new ones.

Let us know when as I`ve also got to change mine sometime soon, as also fitting alloys. Could do both at the same time.