Bodywork al fresco
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 35
- Joined: 14 Oct 2009, 21:35
- 80-90 Mem No: 7639
- Location: Salisbury, Wiltshire
Bodywork al fresco
At some point I'm going to sort out the body work on my van - sanding, welding, new panels, rollering w/ rustoleum etc etc. Its not going to happen this year, but I'm looking at gathering the tools and skills I'll need to do it.
I don't have a garage that it will fit in, so any work is going to have to be done in whatever bright spells we're lucky enough to get. When you're mid-way through the work, what's the best way to stop it all melting into a rusty heap before your eyes? Is just slapping on vactan or primer going to be good enough?
Cheers,
Tim
I don't have a garage that it will fit in, so any work is going to have to be done in whatever bright spells we're lucky enough to get. When you're mid-way through the work, what's the best way to stop it all melting into a rusty heap before your eyes? Is just slapping on vactan or primer going to be good enough?
Cheers,
Tim
- Zebedee
- Registered user
- Posts: 368
- Joined: 17 Jan 2009, 17:31
- 80-90 Mem No: 9267
- Location: Maryport, Cumbria
Re: Bodywork al fresco
I've done a complete bay resto (and you know how they like to rust
) without a garage and have also done the bodywork on my caravelle too.
As long as you rust cure or paint the repairs then a few days of rain won't do any real harm. I just slapped red oxide primer on after i did any work then gave it a quick spray with an aerosol can. It can always be sanded back off and rust cured when you get ready to paint. Plastic bags and gaffer tape are ideal to stop water getting into places you don't want (like the indside of the sill once the outer is off).
Have you got space to erect a gazeebo or marquee you could work under? The sort you can get off ebay for £60 or so. A large tarp is just as good as long as its tied down so it doesn't become a kite.

As long as you rust cure or paint the repairs then a few days of rain won't do any real harm. I just slapped red oxide primer on after i did any work then gave it a quick spray with an aerosol can. It can always be sanded back off and rust cured when you get ready to paint. Plastic bags and gaffer tape are ideal to stop water getting into places you don't want (like the indside of the sill once the outer is off).
Have you got space to erect a gazeebo or marquee you could work under? The sort you can get off ebay for £60 or so. A large tarp is just as good as long as its tied down so it doesn't become a kite.

Movember, growing a tash for charity.
Please donate: http://mobro.co/Zebedee
When you do things right people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
http://www.border-dubbers.co.uk
1988 Caravelle running LPG
Please donate: http://mobro.co/Zebedee
When you do things right people won't be sure you've done anything at all.
http://www.border-dubbers.co.uk
1988 Caravelle running LPG
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 804
- Joined: 09 Aug 2009, 21:53
- 80-90 Mem No: 8265
- Location: County Monaghan, Ireland
Re: Bodywork al fresco
Epoxy primer...totally waterproof and you can do filler work on top of it. Doesn't make sense to me to put on a temporary primer and then have to remove it all again.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
- New Kentish Campers
- Registered user
- Posts: 1739
- Joined: 12 Oct 2010, 06:16
- 80-90 Mem No: 8994
- Location: Near Linton, Kent.
- Contact:
Re: Bodywork al fresco
boatbuilder wrote:Epoxy primer...totally waterproof and you can do filler work on top of it. Doesn't make sense to me to put on a temporary primer and then have to remove it all again.
You have a PM

-
- Registered user
- Posts: 35
- Joined: 14 Oct 2009, 21:35
- 80-90 Mem No: 7639
- Location: Salisbury, Wiltshire
Re: Bodywork al fresco
I thought about getting a marquee, but would have to get buy-in from t'other half. I'll invest in some epoxy primer, any recommended brands?
Cheers,
Tim
Cheers,
Tim
Re: Bodywork al fresco
I started off covering mine with a tarp but decided I wanted something better to get the most out of the welder when he came for the day.
Then tried using a decent marquee that didn't work very well.
Ended up building a permanent structure that completely covers the van and now I will take my time completing my van and have it ready for the open road before I dismantle the structure. (then maybe re-erect for my next project
)
Now I can work on my van whenever I want whatever the weather.
Jon.
Then tried using a decent marquee that didn't work very well.
Ended up building a permanent structure that completely covers the van and now I will take my time completing my van and have it ready for the open road before I dismantle the structure. (then maybe re-erect for my next project

Now I can work on my van whenever I want whatever the weather.
Jon.
1982 Diesel hightop. 1Y engine. Still work in progress but running and taking us on holidays.
Re: Bodywork al fresco
sjmtlewy wrote:I thought about getting a marquee, but would have to get buy-in from t'other half. I'll invest in some epoxy primer, any recommended brands?
Cheers,
Tim
I use ferpox if you can get hold of it. Brilliant stuff and dries in mins when you spot dark clouds
1990 Volkswagen Type 2 (T3). Campervan conversion by Luna.
1.7 L (1,715 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY)
Resoration photos http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=85759
LUNA-FREIZEITMOBILE GMBH: http://tinyurl.com/6mjerz8
1.7 L (1,715 cc) (54 bhp) (Serial # KY)
Resoration photos http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=85759
LUNA-FREIZEITMOBILE GMBH: http://tinyurl.com/6mjerz8
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 804
- Joined: 09 Aug 2009, 21:53
- 80-90 Mem No: 8265
- Location: County Monaghan, Ireland
Re: Bodywork al fresco
sjmtlewy wrote:I thought about getting a marquee, but would have to get buy-in from t'other half. I'll invest in some epoxy primer, any recommended brands?
Cheers,
Tim
Jotun Jotamastic
Lechler 29107
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
- xpress
- Registered user
- Posts: 380
- Joined: 27 Apr 2009, 11:33
- 80-90 Mem No: 6827
- Location: West London, UK
Re: Bodywork al fresco
i use zinc phosphate primer but starting to wish i used epoxy primer. is it like primer with grp plastic resin mixed in? it's a fun game with the clouds.
Das AutoWagen.
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 804
- Joined: 09 Aug 2009, 21:53
- 80-90 Mem No: 8265
- Location: County Monaghan, Ireland
Re: Bodywork al fresco
It's a two pack thing, you have to mix hardenener with it. Its not like normal 2k paints though, its epoxy based.
The Lechler stuff also has Zinc Phosphate in it.
My local motor factors man always tries to convince me that 2k primer is the same as epoxy primer, but hes wrong.
Epoxy resin is similar to grp resin, but epoxy is superior in terms of strength and abrasion resistance.
I once built a wooden speedboat held together entirely with epoxy glue, no screws or nails whatsoever. Wooden boats are often totally encapsulated in epoxy to basically make a wooden boat completely waterproof. Epoxy glue can also be used to make fuel tanks as its resistant to diesel and petrol (to a lesser extent). Its impressive stuff.
The Lechler stuff also has Zinc Phosphate in it.
My local motor factors man always tries to convince me that 2k primer is the same as epoxy primer, but hes wrong.
Epoxy resin is similar to grp resin, but epoxy is superior in terms of strength and abrasion resistance.
I once built a wooden speedboat held together entirely with epoxy glue, no screws or nails whatsoever. Wooden boats are often totally encapsulated in epoxy to basically make a wooden boat completely waterproof. Epoxy glue can also be used to make fuel tanks as its resistant to diesel and petrol (to a lesser extent). Its impressive stuff.
1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop
- xpress
- Registered user
- Posts: 380
- Joined: 27 Apr 2009, 11:33
- 80-90 Mem No: 6827
- Location: West London, UK
Re: Bodywork al fresco
funny you should say that. after de rusting the front valance, a couple costs of grp/fiberglass went on before the top coat of rustoleum. very strong and waterproof.
Das AutoWagen.