Clutch, spigot bearing, please not the gearbox....

[dansimpson]

Lil Vera did us proud last week, over 1000miles.
But on the journey home I noticed that when changing gear, particularly if the revs were a bit high, I could feel a bit of vibration through the clutch pedal just as it was being dipped, and again just at the bite point when bringing it back up. Not slippage, no problems engaging/disengaging gears.
We're at 85k miles, the clutch pedal comes up fairly high before biting, so I'm thinking new clutch? spigot bearing maybe?

I dont want to drive to far now till I've had a look.
2 questions:

How do I know which clutch kit I need as it appears there are 2 sizes/diameters -its a 1.9 wbx, 5 speed, 1985.

And second;

Anybody local done a clutch/removed a gearbox want to give me a hand for a few quid? It would be very much appreciated and I'd go with your timescales.
I can probably get the use of an old barn with a hydraulic lift, but even with that I am not looking forward to the prospect of doing this on me own.

Well, cheers to anyone that can consider it anyway

Dan

[California Dreamin]

Just sounds like a worn clutch release bearing and diaphram spring ends...in other words a new three part clutch should sort it.
Not a massive job but does it certainly does help if there is two people.

Martin

[croc]

Hi Dan
Like California says, not a big job but does need 2 pps for the engine out and in lifts, particularly if using a trolley (floor ?) jack.
Disconnect battery before this next part.
Most time taken with disconnecting, reconnecting electrics and hoses. It gets very wet as there's a lot of coolant!
Label ALL wires as you disconnect and also the engine part they join too if you not sure.
Gearbox can be supported with short pieces of 3" x 2" wood in the trailing arms if you dont have a second jack for the gearbox. Note: this is only to support the gearbox when weight of the engine has been removed. Some risk here to driveshafts, second jack much better method.
Van needs to be about 300 mm off ground at rear (on ramps) if using trolley jack. Not much less for skateboard and engine hoist. Remember these are heavy vehicles so use strong supports. (Personally I dont trust DIY stands and prefer ramps or blocks) You may spend a lot of time under there and push and pull on spanners etc, so be sure!
Once all disconnected, engine supported and gearbox support ready, remove support bar, 4 bolts + nuts to chassis rail, there are only 4 bolts/nuts connecting engine to gearbox.
Lower engine and GB together then support gearbox, undo the 4 bolts and adjust supports so the gearbox does not hang on or support the engine, ie keep the gap even as you separate engine and GB. This is the first part for 2 people.
Two people can move the engine off the jack and on to block to do the clutch work by hand. They are not hugely heavy - mind your backs though.
This is the method I used when doing my own, 3 times with only my partner to assist with the in and out lifts. So use these comments at your own descretion. Also a 1.9 DG WBX and 5 speed GB.
Additionally - consider changing gearbox oil while van is on the ramps. Remember loosen the fill bung first before draining, its near where the gear linkage enters, these can be very stubborn. I tried Aidans suggested 75W90 GL4/GL5 oil and gear changes are noticably improved.
Beg, borrow or steal a (Haynes) manual.
Use a clutch alignment tool when re-assembling clutch.
Consider replacing spigot bearing in rear of crankshaft, clutch throwout bearing and the starter bush now too. These all require engine out if needed later.
I am near Plymouth and would like to come to help but partner doing chemotherapy at the mo so cant get away. Message me or post here if I can give any verbal help.
Good luck, this is not technically imvolved just use common sense!
jon

[dansimpson]

Cheers for the info guys, I'll try and get a local extra pair of hands. If I can get the engine/gearbox out and onto a workbench then theres a few jobs to do. Then a hand putting back in again methinks.

[California Dreamin]

Easier on a wasserboxer to remove the gearbox......
Two drive shaft flanges
Starter motor
Clutch slave cylinder mountings...not the hydraulics
Gearbox mounting including the earth strap
The bell housing bolts
Agreed...change the starter 'oilite' bush and spigot shaft bearing at the same time (about £15.00 extra but well worth doing especially the starter bush)

why would you want to remove the engine with all the wet stuff?

Martin

[futbus]

Hi Dan, If you can get it over then do it at ours. Clutch dont take to long and dont take the engine out.

[CovKid]

Agree - way easier to remove gearbox.

[croc]

These guys have more experience than I with these vans, seems consensus is gearbox out so I would go with that.
I thought you were intending engine out hence my suggestions.
Just make sure the CV joint bolts are done up to correct tension when re-installing. They can work loose.
Also since the shafts are half out, check rubber boots on both CV's of shafts while you have room to move under there.