engine and box removal walkthrough tips?

[hotpod]

hi guys, i have searched the wiki ( and there is a brief bit on engine but not box removal) and searched the forums with snippets of info here and there but nothing definitive.
i am taking the engine and box out of the camper to send Aidan the box and replace tank straps etc. and replace some exhaust studs and give the engine a good clean. it is a 2.1 dj.

does anyone have or know of a comprehensive checklist for the job? i have only ever taken engines out of aircooleds and a gearbox once from a t25 2wd.
things like, whats the best way to drain the coolant? and do you re use it if it is only 6 months old?
anything particularly to look out for that a novice mightn't notice till its too late?
is it best to get the back up on ramps before undoing stuff, or to jack it up onto them once the engine is on the floor? i know that on aircooleds that it is tricky getting the van up high enough to slide the engine out from under.

i have borrowed an engine crane to use instead of a trolley jack. the van is undercover. Ive got all the tools
just need a bit of knowledge now and i will be well away.
any advice much appreciated.

[silverbullet]

As I'm right in the middle of this very job (but no expert. Others know far more than me!) I'd advise the following based on my wbx syncro experiences from when I took out the gearbox but left the engine in-situ. Now I've got the engine out

Van on ramps and tyres pumped up hard, as every little helps! Undo the CV's when it's up there as you have more room to work; you'll need that to pull the fuel tank and check all's well with the breather lines.

Take off the inlet system complete to gain some clearance. Leave the exhaust on the engine (maybe? Silencer may get dented) but take the engine bar off to save your shins. Remove the alternator etc as it makes the engine a little lighter.

Re: Coolant, pop one of the long pipe hoses in the engine bay, it will save dumping the lot and minimize spillage (it is poisonous and small animals are attracted to the sweet smell and taste of it.

Disconnect the starter on a syncro last of all as it's so hard to get to the cable. Breathers and vac tubes are far more accessable.

[PC52]

Agree, but no ramps. They'll get in the way.
Use axle stands - the reason you need to spin the wheels to accomodate good access to the drivelines on the gearbox.

Hold it on the hoist and pop it on a 4 wheel trolley and slide it out the back.
From memory the heat shield tinware stuff on the wbx can be a pain in the butt 'cos it carries the header tank aswell.

tip 1. Bag up your cvs with asda bags - protect you becoming covered with the dreaded molly
tip 2. Remember your gearbox breather pipe on removal and on re-fit.
tip 3. cable tie your solenoid wire to the solenoid as it is a little darling on re-fit

[PC52]

PS tip 4. Throw the wbx away and DIESEL it

Then, tip 5. Drop the lot with the exhaust on - YOU WILL SNAP STUDS (let sleeping dogs lie)

[mm289]

If you are using a hoist then get the van up on axle stands as stated above, take the weight on the hoist/crane and slide a couple of planks across the legs of the hoist. When it is all out you can then drop the unit onto the planks and wheel out, no need for dollies or jacks

This worked on my 2wd WBX, like mentioned above remove the alternator.

I tool the heat deflector over the silencer of on mine before removal which was a right pain. I actually refitted the engine and then fitted the deflector ( can't recall if I had the silencer on or off at that stage), but don't think you need the heat deflector off to drop the engine.

MM

[toomanytoys]

Not comprehensive, assuming using some common sense and not rushing to drop it (And I've had a few beers...) get it up high on axle stands under the chassis legs by the rear jacking points.....
assuming engine protection off, cv's undone and strapped forwards as much as poss.. etc etc...
Leave everything on the engine, but remove arbox and intake rubber.. disconnect the gear shift mech at box, drop front of box enough to get to breather tube and feeds to starter.. (you'll might find need to drop diff lock vac unit to access the starter).. of course the coolant pipes and electrical conections... undo the 4 x 10mm bolts from silencer heat sheild and the screws holding the side sheilds to the body.. as said, use an engine hoist to support main weight of engine, undo rear support bar and lower the whole lot.. (lower a few inches first, check all pipes and electrical connections ARE removed... ) front of box on a trolley jack.. its heavy tho.. with the right hoist and jack, its poss to drop it onto the hoist legs and remove under the rear valance..

Mess with the exhast bolts ONLY if you really have too... as if a rusty and cruddy as most, it will end in tears... unless you have plenty of time available...

Usuall dissclamer applies....

[hotpod]

excellent.
i knew you wouldnt let me down.
just need to make another axle stand and then i am on it!

[KINGPRAWN]

don't know what in talking about realy but with alignment issues causing strange vibrations/drones do you need to somehow mark things to go back in the same place???? syncroservices say they have a laser system to set it all up properly???

[hotpod]

i will take some measurements then.
i didnt realise it was that critical.

[KINGPRAWN]

i will take some measurements then.
i didnt realise it was that critical.

i have a cyclical drone that wasn't there before nige/lindsay replaced my engine and removed the front trans to replace the vc at a later date a good few years back..no big deal but...its there! apparently they wern't best alligned from new so by the time we've all messed arround stuff starts happening!

[silverbullet]

don't know what in talking about realy but with alignment issues causing strange vibrations/drones do you need to somehow mark things to go back in the same place???? syncroservices say they have a laser system to set it all up properly???

Bit of a hot potato that one but IMHO...a prop that has run for a long time in a given position WILL have wear in the u/j's (properly called Brinelling of the bearing tracks aka "going digital") and once it's all been out and refitted - maybe with new engine and gearbox mounts, worn or refurbed donut bush etc - the angles will be subtly different so the u/j's are bearing on different points.
This could well be the cause of a lot of prop vibe that syncro drivers experience and the only way to completely eliminate it is a completely refurbed prop, cv's and wheel bearings...
That's my reckoning.

P.S. Pete is bang on about not using ramps. I had no choice as our driveway has a bit of a slope, so I cracked the CV joint bolts first. Less convenient , but safer.

[toomanytoys]

I'd have to agree with SB on this.. wear builds up over time and a slight change in the setup will offer the opportunity for any wear to create a vibe.. all mine has been out and in 3 or 4 times in the last 6 years.. never measured or laser aligned, just too care to make sure all put back together properly with not mounts missaligned or prop in compression/tension.. (small amout of leaverage on the front diff shoug release the prop from the locating lips on the flanges..) original prop never caused vibes, till I bent it.... used prop I bought has play in 1 of the straked ends so vibes...

I've got to buy a new prop and some new front CV's as there the only things that havent been replaced/rebiult...

[axeman]

going back to the alinment issue. once very thing is boilted back togeather loosen the gearbox and diff mounts. dont undo them just loosen them. go for a short drive quarter of a mile or so. every thing should locate it self. then tighten everything up nice and tight. this it what i have done and everything sceems good.
just my thoughts neil