Type one engine instead of CT?

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Just read through your thread....

The CT and the T1 and 2 engines are not that different, the differences being mostly internal.

So, if you were to use the oil cooler and tower and shroud off the CT, with a bit of fiddling I don't see why you can't use all the ct tinware. You might find it easier to use a T2 engine foam surround strip.

As long as youv'e got the top separated from the bottom, you'll be ok.

By all means fit a secondary oil cooler.

You might benefit from an indirect air intake, so no cutting hatches.

With the cam you have specified, you should get pull through all the gears, just remember there are only 4.

You'll run out of revs before power.

Juicy but fun

Cordialement,

[fall-apart-dave]

Thanks for the reply

The engine is now in the T25, though I haven't driven it yet doe to a lack of clutch. I'm not happy about the mounting system I have emplyed either, some more fettling required I think.

Still, lots of progress, and I just need to make a "power bulge" in the engine lid of about 4" to accomodate the IDF's and the type 1 doghouse.

Oil cooler is going off to the left of the engine, I am cutting louvers in the bit behind the tail lights and there is a fan on top of the cooler which will blow air through it and down through to where the hot air is.

[fall-apart-dave]

Should probably update this thread!

Well, I have been away a LOT with work so not been able to do much until the last couple of days.

I re-designed the mounting system, there are now two support bars.

This one goes over the top of the gearbox and mounts to the chassis legs





It's a bit on the agricultural side, but it can take the full weight of my Morris Minor (I drove over it, oops!).

And here is how it mounts:







It rests on two standard engine mounts, one either side.

Then, becuase there are no mounting lugs (being a Bug case) and it is full flow (meaning I can't use the adapter kits that are available), I made this:





It bolts to the case half studs at the front of the engine, and to the standard mustache bar. I had to drill two extra holes for the bar though as it pushed the bar back by about 1" (to allow for the bigger oil pump).

The engine is now in and feels firmer than standard, new kushlok clutch fitted, I have to drill the carb manifold for the vac takeoff for the servo brakes, and then it's just a case of cobbling some tinwear together, wire up the fuel pump and bolt the oil cooler in place. Nearly there!

[fall-apart-dave]

Oil cooler now plumbed in and bolted down, manifold drilled and vac takeoff fitted for the servo, exhaust on, all that remains to do is to modify the engine wiring to fit the engine, wire the fuel pump up, bash out some tinwear and I'm done! I can't WAIT to drive it!!

[fall-apart-dave]

Well, today was a bummer!

Got everything finished bar the tinwear, thought i would fire the engine up and see how it sounds, play around with the carbs etc.

Took the plugs out, cranked it to fill the oil cooler and filter with oil until the light went out, good crank speed, refitted the plugs just itching to hear it start up...

... and it barely turned over. Bugger. Figured it was a battery running flat. It just so happened that I had forseen this eventuality, and had another battery fully charged on standby. Swapped them over, and the same thing. Thought it might have been the earth, so fitted a second earth strap, aaaaannnnnd still the same thing. Earth cable on the battery is nice and warm, starter motor is toasty, so I figure that the starter just aint man enough to turn the high compression engine over. ARGH!!!!

I'm properly sulking now. Still, this is what it now looks like:



Oil cooler location:



Peekaboo!



I think I might have to clearance the engine lid a little...

[BOXY]

Have you tried turning it over by hand with the plugs out, just to make sure that the high compression is the issue?

[fall-apart-dave]

Nah I turned it over with the starter without the plugs and got a nice crank speed. Off out to tinker with it some more now.

[fall-apart-dave]

Sorted, started, she now turns and burns...

... and OH BOY does it shift now, with SUCH a nice induction note! I am a veeeery happy boy indeed!

[fall-apart-dave]

Indeed. Look after it, it'll look after me. This engine has pushed a mud plugger through off road courses for a fair while, has been stripped since and slightly longer con rods put in while it was open to up the CR a little. Heads, internals, everything is in perfect condition. I'm confident about reliability provided I keep up oil changes and keep an eye on temperature. Head and oil temp senders are next on the list for me as well as a warning light for when the oil cooler fan is operating.

More work done...

Tinwear made:



Remember the eingine poking out of the hatch?

- I have since welded this in properly, it is just tacked in the pic here.

Clearance for the engine:





View through the flap in the back:



I have a problem now though, I can't get reverse at all. 1st is where reverse should be, so need to fettle the gears a little and see if I can adjust it out.

I have a couple more bits of tinwear to make just to seal it properly around the pulley (got some Splitty tinwear to go in there) and then after that, I'm more or less done.

The exhaust is TOTALLY crap though, somone made it themselves out of a Monza 4 tip Bug exhaust, it is waaaaaay too loud now so that's something else I have to sort. A 4-1 header is required, I have a lovely muffler to go on there. Apart from that, I'm happy!

[toomanytoys]

Presumably you have fitted a foam sealing strip around the tin to seal it to the body.... Slight concern over the open pulley area and oil cooler.. when stationary I reckon there will be a lot of heat coming back up there.. the fan will just recirc it... and funny things happen when traveling at speed.. at least you will see what temps are doing.. and can experiment with a couple of solutions..

[fall-apart-dave]

The open area has a heat shield you can't see over the exhaust, with a curve to direct heat under the van rather than it going up through the pulley. It seems to work well, I wired up a warning light to the fan so I know when it comes on and went on a haul to York and back (240 mile round trip), the warning light comes on when cruising at 60 and stays on, so after 50 miles I pulled over to check what the temps were like and it was hot, but no more so than any other air cooled I have owned (I use the technique of pulling out the dipstick and grabbing it). Cruising at 70, the light comes on and off as you go but 70 is too much for fuel economy.

So, I played around around some more, and found that the warning light doesn't come on at all if I open the tail flap about 4" at any cruising speed. Interestingly, the light was on for about 10 minutes on the way to the Tyne Tunnel, traffic was very heavy and when in the traffic, the light went off and stayed off then for around 10 minutes after we left the tunnel traffic and were cruising again.

On the return trip, the light didn't come on at all (the thermostat is set to 80 degrees), so I am happy and confident that it is not overheating and running hot. I have not got around to installin a foam strip yet. I am, however, going to get an acuator that opens the tail flap a couple of inches when the fan comes on, and I am going to make a scoop that sits over the oil cooler and exits into the gearbox area (facing rearward) so that the hot air expelled from the stock oil cooler is blown down there and not all over the place like it currently is.

No other niggles to report at all, she ran very well all the way there and back, I'm happy with it.

Interestingly, the trip there used about £38 worth of fuel, the return trip about £30, approximately £1.32 per litre. 120 miles each way, so the trip there returned 19mpg cruising at 70 average, the return trip returned 24mpg. Not too bad for a 2 litre air cooled.

Another funny little thing, pulled into Tesco to get a few bits and bobs in York, ran into a chap with an identical van. Lityerally. Same colour scheme, year, his was a 1600CT (which mine was), Devon conversion, was nice to see!

[Plasticman]

be nice when you get it sorted and done, tesco eh, tadcaster road branch was it.lol
mike

[fall-apart-dave]

Nah it was the big one on the ring road by Burger King.

That is the last time I sing the van's praises. Ever. On the trip from the Mother in law's to home the bloody oil pipe blew off the oil pump and emptied the sump all over the road. Turns out the earth for the fan had worked it's way loose too, so that's why it didn't come on for the whole trip home. FFS.

[Plasticman]

bu**er, I know its horse bolted etc but when we dry sump stuff its always aeroquip for the oils especially hp lines, cost a few quid but fit and forget, main thing is I take it no damage,? learning curve and worth it in the end,
mike

[fall-apart-dave]

Nah no damage, as soon as the oil light flicked on I chucked it out of gear and coasted to a safe place. There was still oil in the sump when I pulled over (I know this because of the oil under the van ), it has a deep sump and with the oil cooler and filter takes about 6 litres to fill. Missus was behind me, went on aheard to our house and fetched a bottle of oil, took about 4 litres to fill back to the max line so not too worried.

Teething problems! Now if I can just solve the problem with the nylon ring keeping coming off the guide rod on the gearbox making it impossible to get reverse and hard to get first and second, I'll be sorted!