hi! after cleaning my carb and replacing the auto choke, it doesnt seem to be working now. main problem i think is when it came apart it pinged apart and im not too sure how it goes back together the spring in the round piece with three screws had a sort of notch or hook. does the sticky out piece connected to the flap at the top of the carb go into this and if so does it need much tension? sorry if this isnt very clear i'll try and get some pictures. also the idle is very erratic and it takes some starting and stalls almost immediately.
thanks for looking
yes pin sticking out bit goes on the spring of the choke unit. if i remember correctly push the bi metalic strip up against the carb body and turn clockwise untill the choke flap shuts. you may have to open the throttle to get this to happen. as the chock flap shuts it also steps up the throttle. you need to fiddle then to get the right amount of "choke on" before the bi metalic coil unwinds and allows the choke to come off.
Hi
There is an elecrtric shut off solanoid/valve on Left side of carb (looking at it from behind van) with a single wire. If this wire is not live with ignition on or there is no earth between carb and engine it wont idle. You can tell if it's working by switching ignition on and removing/replacing wire if there is no click it aint working.
The idle jet is very easily blocked and will cause similar idleing issues. It's on R side of carb near the top be carefull not to drop it!
There is a procedure to follow to set up choke involving measuring the gap between flap and body, Its in all manuals maybe on wiki.
I had great trouble with mine due to rust from tank keep blocking jets in carb. 2 new fuel filters later it runs great now. This carb is the same design as fitted to beetles so there will probably be imfo on one of the many air cooled sites.
As they said ^^^^ but knowone mentioned the marks on the carb and bi-metalic choke housing that give a rough guide to basic adjustment......two or three notches that give the basic range.
Also..has the housing got a heater? feed wire to the bi-metalic housing.....needs to be fitted if it has.
hi, thanks for the reply
I've checked the solenoid and I get a click so dont think thats an issue.
just a bit confused with the set up of the spring in the cap and the pin coming from the flap, it seems to tension the flap closed when i move it anti clockwise and seems to work fine but then when i start the engine from cold the choke doesnt want to work
Ive checked the wiki and followed the info to the best of my knowledge, any other ideas/tips would be gratefully received
California Dreamin wrote:As they said ^^^^ but knowone mentioned the marks on the carb and bi-metalic choke housing that give a rough guide to basic adjustment......two or three notches that give the basic range.
Also..has the housing got a heater? feed wire to the bi-metalic housing.....needs to be fitted if it has.
Martin
havent noticed any notches on the housing, but there is a cable that connects to the outside of the housing and this seems to have power.
The pin from the flap sits inside the rectangular silver spring. With cold engine just put the cover back on with the choke flap fully closed (hold it closed with your finger if you need to) dont put tension on either way and tighten the three screws where it naturaly sits. Reconect the wire and it should work. The Bi metalic strip is heated electricly on these carbs.
Where are you? I'm in suffolk I have a spare on an old beetle carb.
My apologies if I'm misleading anyone about these notches. it was just something that was nagging in the back of the grey matter...I know some solex's have them but perhaps not this model.
Your not wrong Martin I remember seeing marks on water heated auto chokes and was surprised not to find any on my DF. The old beetle carb I have has none also cos I immediatly had a look in case I was missing them. However I remember fitting a man choke coversion to a ford V6 i owned and the choke body was definatly marked. Think it may have been a weber tho.
I think it would be wise to advise anybody stripping a solex to mark the position of the choke body before they remove it.
Thanks for all the help!
It seems to be working now...I put it together with the pin in the spring ,twisted the cover untill the flap was shut and now its working fine
the reason I decided to referb my carb was a popy backfireyness on declaration. I still have this problem so am moving onto the pipes feeding the carb...maybee should have started there ohh well its all clean now and i know thats not the problem
Thanks again for everyones help
the spring in the round piece with three screws had a sort of notch or hook. does the sticky out piece connected to the flap at the top of the carb go into this and if so does it need much tension? sorry if this isnt very clear i'll try and get some pictures. also the idle is very erratic and it takes some starting and stalls almost immediately.
