Some advice please

[Don-Tucker]

The engine runs OK but uses a bit of oil,to be expected after 126000 miles,has the usual tappet noise untill they fill up so I had it in mind to do an engine overhaul later on,the question is should I just do the barrels and pistons with new cam followers or go the whole hog and fit a crank and bearings as well as cam shaft.
Or may be leave it alone.
Don

[Don-Tucker]

Using Motoquip 20-50 , I suppose I put in abour 1/2 ltr per 250 miles,to be honest its the bl00dy tappet noise ,but I suppose I'm being a bit fussy.
Don

[Grun]

Don,
I am sure there are people more experienced on the wasserboxer than me, but why not do an oil pressure check to help you decide whether to do the bottom end?
I have done one 1600 Aircooled (AD) engine from my Bay, (bottom end included) and that was a doddle.
In issues 2 and 3 of 'Camper and Commercial' there were articles by Laurie Pettitt (thats how they spelt it) on "Building the Boxer".
I could scan them and email to you if they would be of use.
Mike

[Don-Tucker]

Thanks for the reply Mike, perhaps the thing to do is wait awhile and see how it goes,very kind ,the offer of the jen,if I do it I shall take you up on it.I have overhauled a few engines ,including a Morse type Jag engine so I have a bit of expeience,it just the older I get I need more pushing.
Cheers Don

[Grun]

Don, I know what you mean by having to be pushed
Surprised there have been no comments on 1600AD (don't you mean BC you old git!) or it 'took you long enough didn't it?'
I have scanned the articles, by the way.
Mike

[Don-Tucker]

Cheers for the advice boys,I'll wait on this one.
Mike my e-mail is d.tucker2@ntlworld.com
Don

[CovKid]

Check the end-float - see if crank will move in and out. Also check for any play in con rods (up and down not side to side) once you do a strip down. Any wear here can be an indication of wear within. Not a hard and fast rule but a good indicator as to whether to rebuild or not.

With barrels off you can to get a visual check of cam wear too. Personally I hate stripping the bottom end, you need eight pairs of hands and dizzy often a pain to locate. Mind you, you COULD put a mildly tuned cam in there if you do split the case

[Don-Tucker]

Thanks Cov,I did an engine once ,just the cylinders and pistons and ended up having to take it out again and do the bottom end as it put extra strain on it,so I wouldn't want to do that again.
Don

[CovKid]

Like putting a bionic arm on an old lady Don. Lot of people do that and come a cropper. Over time an engine gets 'relaxed' - happy with its worn parts but as soon as you stiffen up the top end with new pistons etc, the bottom end starts to whinge (rightly so). As you say, the stresses change and it often finishes the big ends etc.

Over the last 20 odd years I've seen young bug owners fit 009's webers, bigger pistons then wonder why the thing blows not long after. The other thing they do is spend a fortune on making it go that bit faster and then penny-pinch on brakes - does my head in that one.

At heart I'm a beetle man and it still niggles me that parts for these lumps are almost double the price of the bog standard Type1 engine but as I've said elsewhere thats because the Type1 sits in the custom market so no shortage of alternative manufacturers for parts.

[Don-Tucker]

So when I do take the plunge ,it's all or nothing,that's dead right Cov,engines seem to be happy enough on worn bits untill something gives up the ghost.
Don

[Don-Tucker]

Well, the amount of oil you use does seem a bit high and the 20/50 is about as heavy as it gets.
Have you tried running with the oil at the lower end of the dipstick?
But, if the noise is getting on your breasticles, and the 20/50 isn't helping, then it could be time to take the spanners to it.
Dont forget to have the heads overhauled as well.

Since reading this post I've been wondering what the theory is behind "running at the lower end of the dipstick" I going to give it a try.
Don