In a nut shell after a few minutes of running the needle goes all the way over and the water light flashes (1.6 TD JX), but the van doesn't over heat, uses no oil, water or consumables, pulls like a train and keeps plodding on (202, 000 miles and counting). This only happened when i changed a knacker JX for a refurbed one. for the first 2 trrips in it i stopped and called out the AA. All connections checked and tested. It is doing my nuts in and obviousley removes any safety net i have should things get too hot. Any suggestions.
Ta
Andy
Temp Gauge
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AngeloEvs
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- 80-90 Mem No: 4709
- Location: Upwell, Norfolk
Re: Temp Gauge
If the cooling system is definitely checked out to be OK, I would disconnect the lead that connects to the temperature sender and run the engine for a few minutes - the gauge should not rise and the LED should go out after a few seconds of flashing. It may just be a wiring error if this has happened following the transplant - a short circuit from this wire to the coolant temp sender to earth/chassis will cause the same symptoms. Alternatively the coolant temp sender in the replacement engine may be faulty.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
Re: Temp Gauge
All wiring has been checked and it doesn't rise as you said, but again i could run like this with out the safety net of a temperature needle. nothing is shorting, all the cooling system was replaced last year, all pipes are clear and water flows freely. The temp sender was also replaced last year. Confused.com
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AngeloEvs
- Registered user
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: 22 Nov 2007, 19:22
- 80-90 Mem No: 4709
- Location: Upwell, Norfolk
Re: Temp Gauge
There are only two components that connect to the temp gauge - a coolant temperature sender and a module numbered 43 (looks like a relay fitted in the fuse box).
If the sender is correct and working as it should, the resistance across it terminals should read around 100 ohms when the engine is at or near normal running temp. A reading of 50 ohms or less and either the sender is stuffed or the water is higher than boiling point.
I would remove the module 43 from the fusebox as these can go short circuit - the temp gauge needle goes full scale, led flashes, etc. You don't want it in place while taking readings or trying to find the fault anyway), then run the engine to normal and take a measurement across the terminals of the temperature sender. With module 43 and the sender wires disconnected there is nothing left to cause the gauge to rise so the gauge should fall and your fault is one of these two components or thew wiring to them.
If the sender is correct and working as it should, the resistance across it terminals should read around 100 ohms when the engine is at or near normal running temp. A reading of 50 ohms or less and either the sender is stuffed or the water is higher than boiling point.
I would remove the module 43 from the fusebox as these can go short circuit - the temp gauge needle goes full scale, led flashes, etc. You don't want it in place while taking readings or trying to find the fault anyway), then run the engine to normal and take a measurement across the terminals of the temperature sender. With module 43 and the sender wires disconnected there is nothing left to cause the gauge to rise so the gauge should fall and your fault is one of these two components or thew wiring to them.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior