He suggested skimming...OK he knows "old VW's" but does he know WBXer engines?
The pitting is usually far to deep to skim heads.. and a waste of time IMHO
JB weld is the best way to smooth out the surface.. fill the holes.. not take out half the head
Prep is important, you want to get down to clean metal down inside the pits, then degrease and dry with a volatile solvent like Brake kleen.
Then you fill with JB Weld let cure, and use a large (12 x 1" ) mill file to carefully take it all down flat again. I actually file the whole end of the water jacket flat this way, going round and round and between the studs at every possible angle, always using another part of the jacket as a flat reference loaction so the file is always flat. You can remove a few thousandths of an inch this way, at most, the epoxy filled areas will actually shrink smaller so you see how minor they actually are. Deburr and chamfer the edges of the jacket very slightly, inside and out, and it's ready for a new water jacket channel seal.
Always apply sealant to both sides of the channel seal (inside the channel as well as on the outer flat face as the book shows). Keep sealant on the flat face to a bare minimum to minimise the crevice corrosion that excess beads of sealant will initiate; that's how the whole head corrosion process gets started.
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)
but not sure whether I'm better off putting a new engine in and trying to make the money back on it with a higher price, or whether I'm better off selling it as is and cutting my losses.
