Estimated cost for metal brake line replacement...

[BOXY]

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html

Prior to 1930, copper and brass, having excellent inherent pressure containing and anti-corrosion characteristics, were the materials of choice for brake tubing.

Interesting info. The reason I asked about copper pipe is because in twenty years of working for various hydraulic engineering companies I've made loads of CuNi brake pipes but only used copper for air, water, gas or low pressure fuel lines.

[California Dreamin]

Both the Cupra/Nickle and copper pipe conform to BS 2871 with a 3100PSI rating. As far as 'bursting' goes I would say the most likely failures would be down to inadequate and poor end flaring rather than the pipe itself bursting on a length run.
Other factors may involve insecure/vibrating and moving pipes which then lead to fatigue breaks.
I've fitted hundreds of 'made up' copper and copper/nickle pipes and never experienced an issue but can see how easy it would be to make an end incorrectly or not properly fix the piping leading to a break.

Martin

[CovKid]

Mine are all copper type. In fact, I bought my Caravelle without seeing it, from ebay a few years ago for about £360. I had a full exhaust system and copper brake line kit (think it was about £60 complete) ready to go on when it arrived. I HATE doing brake pipes and made up my mind to fit once and be done with it, even if it cost more. Had no issues since and if I did have to replace them again, I'd still do it myself. The problem with replacing brake lines is the potential for seized unions that can result in extra parts you hadn't reckoned on.

Its not the biggest job in the world if you work methodically and you'll save some serious wonga doing it yourself but pay the extra and fit copper. I've worked on all types of v-dubs and rusty brake pipes are a right pain. Its not a job you want to keep coming back to.

[1_eyed_jim]

Thanks for all the information. The van past its MOT today with no advisories! Did fail but only for track end bush and end cap missing on the bumper with cost £80 to put right! Happy Chappy Right on with making it look pretty in time for CamperJam!!

[naskeet]

its not just copper tho its Kunifer pipe witch is a alloy of copper and nickel heres all the info you need!

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html

I had previously come across the above link, sometime ago. Here are some more, that you might find of interest:

http://www.cda.org.uk/megab2/corr_rs/is ... tubing.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.mehtatubes.com/cupro-nickel. ... kel-tubes3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

When I retro-fitted twin remote-acting brake servo units, to my family's 1973 VW "1600" Type 2, in 1988/89, as documented in the following topic thread, I took the opportunity to upgrade all of the rigid brake pipes, to 3/16-inch Kunifer-10 (a 90% copper & 10% nickel alloy), which I fabricated myself, using a twin-radii pipe bender, purchased at my local clutch & brake part wholesaler, plus a flaring tool, hired from a local tool-hire shop. Prior to modifying the braking system, the only work I had done on brake hydraulics, was to replace the two rear slave cylinders, on our VW Type 2, some years before.

Bay Tech Clinic > Steering, brakes & Suspension > 1968~79 VW 1600 Type 2 remote-acting servos, Kunifer-10 pipework & silicone fluid

http://forums.kombiclub.com/showthread.php?t=26349" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;