Estimated cost for metal brake line replacement...

[1_eyed_jim]

Van has been dropped off today for the MOT Been told the brake lines look "a bit crusty" just wondered if anyone had a idea of the cost of a garage doing this or attempt to do it myself depending on the cost.

Thanks

[tonytech]

Its a bit of a bugger of a job (aint they all)
Not really hard to do, but time consuming, petrol tank needs dropping.
I paid close 0n £400 last year (inc mot new pads shoes and some other welding)

T

[Plasticman]

And dont forget that you may not get all the bleed nipples open so new cyclinders which means drums off and so on. and then I assume your doing all the flexis etc etc, as said tank out really then what will you uncover with that.
mike

[1_eyed_jim]

Thanks for the replies. Had the tank off several times and the lines did look bad until i sanded them back and painted

[California Dreamin]

oooooooer! 'the lines did look bad until i sanded them back and painted' this is really not a good idea...a roll of cunifer brake pipe and a hand full of unions costs under £25.00....what price someones life!
This is a job you can do yourself, brake flaring tools aren't that much and will save you a fortune in labour costs.
Obviously brakes are a vital component so they need to be repaired properly, so if in doubt pass the job on......

Martin

[1_eyed_jim]

oooooooer! 'the lines did look bad until i sanded them back and painted' this is really not a good idea...a roll of cunifer brake pipe and a hand full of unions costs under £25.00....what price someones life!
This is a job you can do yourself, brake flaring tools aren't that much and will save you a fortune in labour costs.
Obviously brakes are a vital component so they need to be repaired properly, so if in doubt pass the job on......

Martin

Thanks I think I am going to take the job on as it interests me (sad i know) and get it check by a professional afterwards. What do you think of this kit i found on Ebay?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vw-Camper-Beetle- ... 3f0ab18cb7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[BOXY]

I'd check and see if the "copper" pipe they are listing is actually Kunifer ( copper - nickel 70/30). If it's copper I'd be surprised if it would achieve a high enough safe working pressure to be used on a brake system. Ask them what the listed working pressure for the pipe is and then ask them what pressure can be generated by a T25's servo-assisted brakes. If they can't answer both questions don't use copper.

[1_eyed_jim]

I'd check and see if the "copper" pipe they are listing is actually Kunifer ( copper - nickel 70/30). If it's copper I'd be surprised if it would achieve a high enough safe working pressure to be used on a brake system. Ask them what the listed working pressure for the pipe is and then ask them what pressure can be generated by a T25's servo-assisted brakes. If they can't answer both questions don't use copper.

Thanks for your concern and interest. On reflection it seams your right so i re-searched a few more times and found the kit with the pipe you mentioned....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-BRAKE-PIPE-KIT ... 45fac510d6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Guy seams honest and decent

[BOXY]

When it comes to brakes, it's best to buy the highest spec you can.

[California Dreamin]

The Copper pipe does meet the required specification and is in no way unsafe but it does tend to be a little maluable and easily bent. The Kunifer is slightly harder and retains it's shape better.
Just be very careful to make the correct flare for the male connectors: see the advice on that link.

Martin

[lhd]

IIRC Brickwerks charges £200 although that was a while back.
Rob.

[BOXY]

I don't want to be accused of scare mongering but I'd be really interested in people's opinions and experiences of using copper brake pipe.

The Copper pipe does meet the required specification and is in no way unsafe

Does anyone know the actual figures for the working pressure of copper pipe and the brake system pressure on a T25?

The working pressure quoted by tube manufacturers is normally given for a new straight length of tube burst tested with soldered ends. If you were to test the same tube in a real world application:-

Flared ends not soldered (bad flares are very prone to cracking)
A few 90 degree bends (bending the tube thins the wall of the tube on the outside edge)
After a few thousand pressure cycles
After spending the night at -4'C
And with a few rubs and kinks from not clamping or routing the tube properly

The tube would probably struggle to match the original "safe working" pressure quoted on the spec sheet.

[jamesc76]

I don't want to be accused of scare mongering but I'd be really interested in people's opinions and experiences of using copper brake pipe.

The Copper pipe does meet the required specification and is in no way unsafe

Does anyone know the actual figures for the working pressure of copper pipe and the brake system pressure on a T25?

The working pressure quoted by tube manufacturers is normally given for a new straight length of tube burst tested with soldered ends. If you were to test the same tube in a real world application:-

Flared ends not soldered (bad flares are very prone to cracking)
A few 90 degree bends (bending the tube thins the wall of the tube on the outside edge)
After a few thousand pressure cycles
After spending the night at -4'C
And with a few rubs and kinks from not clamping or routing the tube properly


The tube would probably struggle to match the original "safe working" pressure quoted on the spec sheet.

its not just copper tho its Kunifer pipe witch is a alloy of copper and nickel heres all the info you need!

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html

[Ian Hulley]

If you wish to borrow a pipe flaring kit for a week or so then please shout. The piping and all the neccesary fittings are readily available from HGV Direct in Dove Holes and I am over in Stoney Middleton next weekend. So long as I get it back in one piece and before the end of July.

Ian.

[BOXY]

http://www.copper.org/applications/auto ... brake.html

Prior to 1930, copper and brass, having excellent inherent pressure containing and anti-corrosion characteristics, were the materials of choice for brake tubing.

Interesting info. The reason I asked about copper pipe is because in twenty years of working for various hydraulic engineering companies I've made loads of CuNi brake pipes but only used copper for air, water, gas or low pressure fuel lines.