Locks ... Help

[VEEDUB]

Hi all , Just plcked up my 2.0 air cooled viking ,seems all the locks are a bit dodgy,and I cannot open the tailgate phoned the guy he said there is a Knack ... I haven't got it same with the rest of the doors (all a bit dodgy) I dare'nt lock it in case I can't get back in ...First question is can I get the tail gate open through the inside of the van and can you buy a complete lock set and are they easy to fit
Thanks in advance , Bill

[Hacksawbob]

Wiggle as you insert (insert bishop actress joke here) Full lock sets do come up but are rare for late vans, rarer (hens teeth) for early vans, I know the sliding door handle is different on early vans, not sure about the rest. More usual to replace the one lock thats iffy then you have 2 keys, keep going til you have a set of 6 keys for your van!. The locks can be re-keyed to one key if they are in good condition internally. Often the little internal sliders that the key move get gummed up. If the lock is forced it over time it can cut a track in the barrel and the lock will no longer be effective, even with a re-key a scored handle is scrap and needs replacing, although this is usually the case with a door that 'locks' and opens easily rather than a stuck lock. It may be worth having a lube with WD40 and exercise the key in out and see if it frees, in my experience its unlikely.

There is a internal rear hatch relese http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... d=tailgate

Check the wiki in the door locks section too https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Main_Page#Doors

[simple]

Complete early lock sets on ebay from a German supplier £279 + delivery, all door locks, boot lock & fuel cap 1 key, if I had the money I would get them as mine are all a bit 'special'.

[82JEW75]

Might be worth trying a new key cut from the lock code (i.e. not a copy of your existing key), around a tenner from a locksmith (google VW classic key cut form code).

Lock code can be most easily found by removing passenger door handle, one screw, located behind the rubber on the rear edge of the door, in line with the handle.

They all seem to need a bit of a wiggle though, try pushing the key towards one side of the slot or the other.

[VEEDUB]

Thanks for the advice, managed to get the tail gate open had a key cut from the original hoping it would be a bit more edgy as the original is worn badly.... So put new one in the lock ,,, no joy so tried the original ... by this time I'm pissed off ! so was a bit heavy handed ... and click I will never lock it again . I can now carry on with the other 299 jobs that need doing If the rain stops tomorrow I'm going to paint the fiberglass roof. Thanks again

[82JEW75]

If your original key is worn, any copy will replicate that, try a key cut from the lock code as I suggested above

[Cruz]

The bore for the lock barrel can wear on the cab door handles.

The springs wear and the little segments don't sit quite right in the barrel which over time wears scores in the bore of the handle. Eventually you can open your cab door with any key or even a screwdriver. Same on the tailgate lock (mine is errattic)

I got two new OEM cab door handles with locks from custom and commercial and then re-tumbled the new locks to take my original key. See guide

http://www.hallvw.clara.net/lockpart.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can get replacement early and late tailgate locks also from [url=http://www.customandcommercial.com/prod ... 2&group=67[custom and commercial[/url]

You can also get new tailgate latch that allow you to open the tailgate from the inside from brickwerks

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... 3+tailgate" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[New Kentish Campers]

The other thing to note on these type of locks is that the little springs that live inside the lock barrel can become gummed up as the grease inside hardens up and gums up with little fragments of the brass keyways over time.

Its easy enough to do, remove the handle and lock assy, put the key in the chamber, as normal, and then remove the bits at the back of the barrel so that the barrel itself, complete with key still inside, can come out. Keep your fingers on the little brass keyways and DONT pull the key out - otherwise you risk the lot pinging out everywhere and then the fun starts trying to work out where the respective keyways go

Run a little 3-1 oil onto the tops of the key ways and gently begin, while holding everything still, as above, to ease the key in and out and then gently let your fingers ease pressure to see if the keyways can move or not. if they dont then the lock cant do its job so you need to keep dripping some oil in until they move up and down as you put the key in and out.

Basically the keyways go down with the key in, and out - and into the lock chamber so as to hold it in the lock position - Once thats workings fine, reasemble and try it for size, you should be ok now.

Doug.

[Mickyfin]

Can anyone help in my thread re the sliding door handle lock barrel. I don't have a key.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=91473" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[tobnix]

Hi, girly answer, ie nothing technical. our rear door lock fiddly, when unlocking push key up slightly. as unlocked position is only 90 degrees left, when locking push key left slightly, all very gentle.
works for me-good luck.
nix