kevtherev wrote:with a white or cream detail along the big swage....
I'm liking that!
kevtherev wrote:...or the wheel swage line
That doesn't work for me, I can't visualise it.
Is there a competent Photoshopper in the house that can knock up some examples? Pretty please.
I really don't get on with Photoshop, too complicated and in German.
Titus A Duxass wrote:Is there a competent Photoshopper in the house that can knock up some examples? Pretty please.
I really don't get on with Photoshop, too complicated and in German.
I can have a bash, but not until this evening...
[E D I T]Colour change??? - shame on you! [/E D I T]
hi I have just primed and painted a wheel in Hammerite smooth silver after lots of wire brushing, rust convertor and mop disc on grinder! looks good but should I flat it back and lacquer or just lacquer? halfords site say It's not needed.
When I did the wheels on my MR2 I flatted with something like 1200 grade after colour but before clear coat. As I understand it gives the lacquer a decent key and reduces risk of separation and peeling...
cheers stu. paint was brushed on, shall I flat it all back until smooth with 1200 then clear coat with spray? did you use a cardboard template or masking tape. how long did you leave the colour coat to harden? I am using hammerite it dries quick I guess I can try a bit and see.
Ah sorry - my mistake, it didn't sink in that it is Hammerite smooth brush on type. I don't think that lacquer works in that case - it can react with the paint and cause 'wrinkles'. When I did mine, I used 'wheel paint' in a rattle can, then did the keying/lacquer.
StuM wrote:
I can have a bash, but not until this evening...
Cheers.
StuM wrote:
[E D I T]Colour change??? - shame on you! [/E D I T]
I know but it's time for a change.
are you stripping the interior to do the inside exposed metalwork too - big job that, keep it Tango, you won't lose it in a car park, or is it a case of too much like a utility truck in Germany ?