Andy Tats Hinklevagon

[DavidPallister]

Its uncanny, my van has gone in almost all of these places as well, including the floor!!

With regards to the suspension bolt, the holes aren't holes at all, they're slots, 1 horizontal, 1 vertical so you can adjust camber and toe.

Dave

[Plasticman]

I know, figure of speech, hole /slot/orifice but why was the b**ger welded up?
mike

[fidget]

Yes I might make a few up if demand is there, good thick steel but need a new pair of wheels making up with the correct profile James, hear me james

mike

Tell me what you want and it will be done , will need a few more details obviously but certainly easy enough to do. massive back log at work but always room for a bit of private work .

What bout your brothers lathe ?

James

[Plasticman]

Blood out of a stone at times, will need to remove a wheel. me thinks theres either a keyway or somee such drive, will whip one of today
mike

[fidget]

Ill start the search fo a suitable bit of metal

Depending how bad/hard your old wheel is could always re-profile that as well

James

[Plasticman]

Well an interesting old day, decided to sort the tailgate seal area,cut the first bad bit out

made a small piece to let in, all this is in 20g

this bit is part of the rear deck frame, the rear panal spots to it , the next bit is part of the engine /rear deck and spots to the top of this, so effectively the seal reccess is also the join of 3 parts.

I have drilled through the new top bit and brazed it to the main frame

quick grind of

and

The middle area near the striker catch was next

this is much the same as the last but has a reinforcing plate sandwiched in to carry the striker plate nuts, as it was only the top part that was rotten it was realativly easy to sort


will need a bit more detailed dressing but if any filler is needed this is one of the areas where lead is the only propper solution, I think there was enough weld to get a good enough finnish though.
Right hand side a repeat of n/s but a little more of it


and ready for grinding/finnishing

If you do this type of job yourself then make sure you leave extra metal at the open end of the weld so you dont burn it away,then when welded just run a flexpad or simmilar over it.
had to break off at lunch and overhaul the front calipers on the tonka truck for the mot at 4pm which Im happy it passed as I need it to take the remains of this van to the tip
New camera seems to work just dont know how to use it properly
mike

[fidget]

No joy with the form wheel then Mike??

James

[Plasticman]

Bugger,forgot with being busy I did forget, have made a note to do it first thing
mike

[fidget]

Mike

If theres any other sizes or profile you want/need let me know as once the machines set and the programs written there done in a matter of minutes. Key waying them may be a problem but Im looking for a local firm to get it done as we dont do it any more and all the keyway kit got binned. We wire errode every thing now and theres no chance of getting on the machine to get them done.

James

[toolsntat]

Such art work there Mike , it's a shame to paint and stick a seal over them lips

Andy

[Plasticman]

Nah, you know its there anyhow it will look nicer painted and you still see the top and bottom lip. off to get a case of beers so will post up the door bottom epic when I get back
mike
James I will email you this eve,,,

[Plasticman]

Well, got on with the drivers door,shelled it out to a bare shell and whilst possibly an excercise in futility ,would have been more economic to fit a replacement door but needs must and time moves on so I play with door bottoms

Am making the inner out of one piece as its neater and easier, here's flat pack bit no 1

First rough fold, keeping the seal groove to 8mm for a good fit

I have deliberately left the remnant of the inner to use as a guide for shaping the new bit. before fitting I make a piece to go in the door bottom
The angle is clamped to the door to help prevent warping,

This sits beneath the skin but level on the underside, I will lead the bottom when the rest of the area is ground of and done

this is with the inner welded, you can see the outer skin spotted to this new inner

looks a bit rough but will be fine once the grinder has been over it.
Mike

[Plasticman]

One of the reasons I go back to bare metal on some panals(and complete vehicles)

is that when they have had work done in the past I often find filler applied on top of paint, incompatible coatings, all sorts of horrors, I really do like to know whats under stuff.

Its a bodge.
Ok if you are rollering or air drying then yes you can get away with it but when its getting baked the last thing I want is reactions that cost time and money and whats worse could have been avoided,
mike

[Plasticman]

Well, learnt a salutary lesson today,old enough to know better but when were built we have (as a rule) 2 legs, 2 arms 2 ears and 2 eyes, we dont get more of them so I was being a numpty not wearing glasses to do a very quick grind
Had the pleasure of the hozy, funny drops in the eye to numb it then the weird sensation of watching a scalpel like thing scraping my eyeball, prat even said not to move move i was rigid. cut the day short.

Anyhow did a bit, tried the tailgate seal in the new lips after finnishing the grind

Took the sander to the last few suspect bits, found this

it has had a good thump at some time,
This small closing plate to fit , its all important and adds to the structural strength of the jp and suspension mount

innerwing part of lower rear wing removed and this will now be sanndwiched between the old inner and the upper wing, this retains the seam as a tight join and is I think the neatest and easiest way to do it.

This shows the underside view, it doesnt matter if you drill right through the spots as when the new arch is sandwiched in you can then weld from each side

and

its all trial fitted so will fire up the gritblaster tommorow and get them welded on
mike

[Plasticman]

Well a messy dirty day, forget how much crap the blaster makes, anyhow did all the rust spots and seams , this is the nsr wing front now to lead

Lips both side for the slider cover also most of the panal behind here aspecially the slider side

This is about as clean as I can make stuff, it will be treated and the panal welded on within the day

using a yard stick to make sure the seam and join is to the correct line

now welded in place

takes ages sometimes to get the line both parrallel and true to shape.but its important to me, I want them right and it would bug me to see them out
Blasted the seams then raked out a bit more then in with the dremmel then treated. It wont last forever but its the best shot I can do short of parting all the seams and untiull these vans are worth 25K+ I dont think its worth it..

This shows the inside of the rear wings . A is the upper wing, B is the existing arch come inner wing, you can see the new arch sndwiched between, neat and keeps a close join as per original.

Slider looked good ...........untill I hit it with the blaster, new skin needed I will repair the inner .

So all the panals now welded on bit of grinding and lead work , touch of filler and seam sealing and such then we prep for paint .
mike
mike