Telling DOPWS where to go?

[AdrianC]

So, the oil pressure gauge sender's fitted.

If I connect the high-rev sender, I get random flishy-flashies - but if I earth the connector in the engine bay, the light behaves. So - must be the high-rev sender playing up. That's clearly the bit they hung from the factory ceiling and built the rest of the van around, so it ain't getting changed in a hurry. But the wiring's gotta be good.

Which makes me think that the wire from engine bay to dash must be good. Sounds ideal for re-use as the gauge sender's feed. B'sides, this DOPWS lark seems to me like complexity in search of a problem. I just want a nice simple "ohbugger" light to tell me that I've left a slick in the road and my engine's foooked.

But I've not had the lid off the dash yet - what's in there for the DOPWS setup? Is it going to be easy to disconnect everything, use the light in the dash as a nice simple normal oil pressure light, and leave me with a surplus wire in the dash?

This must be something that the various engine swaps have come across...

[Aidan]

yes Adrian you can use the high sender wire if you like - there's a 2 pin plug in the engine bay with the low and the high senders into that and at the 14 pin multiplug into the dash the wires reappear, you can remove the appropriate pin from the plug and wire it to your new gauge,
I used the low pressure circuit myself so lost the flashing oil pressure light on start up but retained bod because that all worked fine, I only fitted the gauge to double check the op as I had a rebuilt engine that was a bad one from the get go but the builder had me jumping through hoops to proove it wasn't the bod circuit, that's also why I have a wet oil pressure gauge with the correct fittings for a wbx in the draw too if anyone needs to check the real op it's there

but you'll have to provide an earth wire to dash instead to shut up bod circuit of course - pins are labelled in german on the foil circuit board

[AdrianC]

but you'll have to provide an earth wire to dash instead to shut up bod circuit of course

That'll still leave me with no idiot light above 2k rpm, though, right? Any easy way to get the light to be just a normal idiot light, and come on according to the low-rev sender at all revs?

[Aidan]

you still have the low pressure light but if that ever comes on you know it's too late 3 psi Since the bod works why not replace the sender they aren't that hard to get out while you are changing the fan belt, but get sender from Baxter, GSF ones seem to be variable quality
personally I like the system - the problems are usually continuity faults and bodges, usually where wire hp wire is earthed unknown to new owner because engine is on last legs and has been sold on to mp rather than fix it, same with idle control systems bypassed and everything turned up to idle, but the system works fine and can be fixed if something faulty and then works as vw intended

[AdrianC]

you still have the low pressure light but if that ever comes on you know it's too late 3 psi

Ah, OK - I thought it just ignored the low-rev sender completely once above 2k.

Since the bod works why not replace the sender they aren't that hard to get out while you are changing the fan belt

There must be a trick that I couldn't figure.