
knock knock!!
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knock knock!!
haven't even tried to investigate yet but i have just noticed a wheel rotation related knock on hardish breaking coming from the reat end..poss the n/s? before i aimlessly start pulling stuff apart any ideas?? one knock per rotation slowins as i slow...under light breaking i cant hear it...think i can also feel it through the pedal....and its not got abs!!! before anyone asks 

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Re: knock knock!!
Me too! Mine is offside rear (I think) on a hard right turn on the overrun. Knackered CV I'll wager...
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
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Re: knock knock!!
really?? havent tried the turning circle thing.....just noticed it on breaking,...seems to be steadily getting worse by the day now too.....cv is that a buggar???silverbullet wrote:Me too! Mine is offside rear (I think) on a hard right turn on the overrun. Knackered CV I'll wager...
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Re: knock knock!!
Doing the rears is straightforward - if a bit mucky - as long as all the bolts are the correct 12-spline type. If hex socket screws have been fitted with cheapo cv's they can strip out, then it's reach for your spare 12-spline tool, hammer in and then undo. I have cut the heads off with a thin disc before but it's not an option for the outers, which are buried up inside the swingarm (plus it's all too easy to slash the thin steel cover that holds the cv boot on the inners anyway...)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!
PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!
PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
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Re: knock knock!!
So err wouldn't be cracked disc/drum ?
Worth a look I hsave thought.
Cheers
Rich
Worth a look I hsave thought.
Cheers
Rich
1986 Yellow Syncro Panel Van camper conversion. 19TDi 1Z Engine conversion
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Re: knock knock!!
umm!....dont like the sound of that....best av' a look then!!11!Roving Rich wrote:So err wouldn't be cracked disc/drum ?
Worth a look I hsave thought.
Cheers
Rich
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Re: knock knock!!
is it possible or possible but madness or a good idea to swap the drive shafts around left for right. so that they drive as if they were in reverse...which i guess will have done no miles atallsilverbullet wrote:Doing the rears is straightforward - if a bit mucky - as long as all the bolts are the correct 12-spline type. If hex socket screws have been fitted with cheapo cv's they can strip out, then it's reach for your spare 12-spline tool, hammer in and then undo. I have cut the heads off with a thin disc before but it's not an option for the outers, which are buried up inside the swingarm (plus it's all too easy to slash the thin steel cover that holds the cv boot on the inners anyway...)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!
PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)

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Re: knock knock!!
And run the risk of snapping a driveshaft? Once run in one direction they shouldn't be swapped over as they develop a helical stress pattern in the steel and should not be exchanged left for right - like twisting a rope.
OK one way but unravels the other! Ask any old-time mechanic or experienced classic car owner worth their salt and they will tell you the same thing.
Mine has now started to knock under load as well so it's ripe for some new cv's. Might just do all 4 before I start looking the front end. And the exhaust. And the prop...
OK one way but unravels the other! Ask any old-time mechanic or experienced classic car owner worth their salt and they will tell you the same thing.
Mine has now started to knock under load as well so it's ripe for some new cv's. Might just do all 4 before I start looking the front end. And the exhaust. And the prop...
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
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Re: knock knock!!
very wise sounding words....and very logical thinking about it..thankssilverbullet wrote:And run the risk of snapping a driveshaft? Once run in one direction they shouldn't be swapped over as they develop a helical stress pattern in the steel and should not be exchanged left for right - like twisting a rope.
OK one way but unravels the other! Ask any old-time mechanic or experienced classic car owner worth their salt and they will tell you the same thing.
Mine has now started to knock under load as well so it's ripe for some new cv's. Might just do all 4 before I start looking the front end. And the exhaust. And the prop...

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Re: knock knock!!
thanks to you guys and a bit of wiki... think i can rule out cv's...no side to side or up or down movement what so ever...only in-out
.....so i guess it must be brake related and thats the only time i can feel/hear it. what can go wrong inside the drum that would only knock on medium to hard braking. is removing the drum a big deal 


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Re: knock knock!!
with sockets that size gonna have to be an ats/kwickfit time......a***!silverbullet wrote:Doing the rears is straightforward - if a bit mucky - as long as all the bolts are the correct 12-spline type. If hex socket screws have been fitted with cheapo cv's they can strip out, then it's reach for your spare 12-spline tool, hammer in and then undo. I have cut the heads off with a thin disc before but it's not an option for the outers, which are buried up inside the swingarm (plus it's all too easy to slash the thin steel cover that holds the cv boot on the inners anyway...)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!
PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)
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Re: knock knock!!
Just got back from weekend away so just catching up - I have 46mm socket and bar if you want to borrow one. Just give me a shout.
1987 Westy Syncro 2.5 DJ (Courtesy of 025MOTORSPORT)
Syncronaut #171
Syncronaut #171
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Re: knock knock!!
thanks very much......i'll give you a shout when i get a mo to get on to it...PetenAli wrote:Just got back from weekend away so just catching up - I have 46mm socket and bar if you want to borrow one. Just give me a shout.

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Re: knock knock!!
I've known the break back plates to knock on the drums before.
Still a drum off fix to "tap" the back plates into alignment.
Still a drum off fix to "tap" the back plates into alignment.
EJ25 Powered RHD Syncro ex Ambleside Mountain Rescue
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Re: knock knock!!
You dont need to remove the 46mm nut to take the drums off. Just remove the 2 m7 11mm spanner bolts and pull the drum off.