broken coolant distributor,upper right,outside of engine bay

[Epiphone]

you mean the rad pipes at the coolant junction?

Is it possible to get them the wrong way around? As looking at the pictures above, it seems to me that all the connectors are a different size, (possibly 2 are the same, but then 1 is in the engine bay and the other outside), indicating that all the hoses are different diameter too?

also, doesnt the "from Radiator hose" go to the thermostat housing and the "to radiator hose" goes from the junction?

Ive had no going off like a kettle yet, it gets 3/4 and then stays there? Tomorrow will drive it for 3 hours, but will keep a close eye on the temp gauge.

forgot to say that the radiator did start to get warm, top right part only, opposite to the bleed screw. But temperature gauge was showing quite hot, at the time, when I had it running stationary to try and bleed it more

how dangerous is this for the engine, its not cooling properly, but it is somehow stabilising but at a hotter temperature. So the partial cooling is doing enough?

So are we thinking, Thermostat or Air Lock, its such a bugger to get out? would the coolant loss and possible high temperatures have broken it?

Great Pic


Ive read alot of threads and this is the best https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... d&start=30

Thinking about, I dont think ive Revved the nuts off enough, seems to be the way to go.

[kevtherev]

I agree at least 3000 rpm for a minute or so

[Epiphone]

So did the 3 hour trip on Saturday morning with a couple of stops to bleed the system.

The radiator seems to be quite cold after driving along the motorway. But then I ran it at 3000 rpm and could feel the heat filling up the radiator.

The temperature sits just above middle but when the heater is also on it sits in the middle.

I'm still not sure if the fan comes on yet as I haven't done a full stationery up to temperature test.

[Epiphone]

Was worried my fan wasnt working anymore as the temp gauge had recently been 3/4 but the fan didnt come on. Did the tests to confirm it was working and then had a proper go at bleeding it and eventually the fan DID come on normally, but only for a short time. But the temp gauge is quite high, is this when it should come on, or should it come on sooner?

IMG_7101.jpg

This is where it seems to sit now, when im NOT on the motorway. Before the losing the water, it hardley moved from smack bang in the middle no matter if I was in the city or the motorway.

Also the radiator itself doesnt get warm at all until the temp guage is past 1/2 way, it shouldnt it start to get warm from the start like all the pipes?

[Epiphone]

bumping for today, almost solved, just put my mind at rest

[kevtherev]

The radiator gets warm at the bottom first
and will only get warm when the thermostat opens at 85 deg.. then it will be FULLY open at 105 deg C

For injection engines....the first speed fan starts at 89 to 94 deg C (so your engine temp is below 89 deg when air is moving through the radiator.)
then cuts out at 81 deg C

the fan and radiator is very efficient at losing heat