Converting 009 Distributor back to OEM - DG - advice sought

[BOXY]

Had a go at this yesterday afternoon with mixed success.

Standing by ready to offer possibly useful advice on what not to do!
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=79992&start=15

[StuM]

Standing by ready to offer possibly useful advice on what not to do!

Fortunately, only a single Vac pipe on mine so that's one less thing to worry about!

[StuM]

And..... we have electronic ignition

Had to get a new distributor clamp as the old one was damaged. Got that, refitted all the original bits, a new coil, new spark plugs, new leads etc and then fired it up - started first time. Timing was off, so sorted that out and the idle - using a new tacho I bought, and it all seems to be running very well - miles better than before. Test run was great - power band is smooth and previous flat-spot gone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56kAEOPhUqQ&

[kevtherev]

Soooo VW got it right first time installing "modern day" ignition in these old ladies
No more adjustments now


Well done pal well chuffed you must be

[StuM]

Thanks Kev. Yes, well pleased

[StuM]

Ok, so I may have spoken a little too soon...

Noticed when cold starting, the van isn't holding idle especially well - in fact it completely cut out just as I was pulling out of a junction the other night (downhill junction, so needed brake and clutch covered, not enough feet for gas too - can't heel and toe easily in this!).

So, here are some things I know:

* Vacuum advance seemed to provide zero resistance when I sucked through it when it was off the dizzy. Now, I know this probably means that the diaphragm is split, but I expected a dodgy vac to display itself as flat acceleration - ie. not affecting cold idle?

* Exhaust has a slight leak from the mainfold to block joint - only when cold. Once warm it closes up, presumably due to metal expanding and filling the gap. Now, inlet manifold leak causing poor idle I get, but could exhaust mainfold gap cause an issue?

It may be that I just need to tweak the idle screw a bit more, but any other suggestions appreciated. Should I be focusing on the carb and not the dizzy for this?

Thanks,
Stu

[kevtherev]

zero resistance is not good
It's weakening the mixture so much that the engine will stall

[StuM]

Thanks for replying, Kev.

My confusion was that as the idle and timing are set up with the vac advance disconnected, I took this to mean that an idle issue wouldn't be connected. So a bad vac advance can cause idle issues, so I'll get my credit card out (again! ) and get onto Brickwerks!

Cheers,
Stu

[BOXY]

zero resistance is not good
It's weakening the mixture so much that the engine will stall

This is only the case if the vac line is still connected. If you've blanked the vac line it won't be effecting the mixture.

[StuM]

zero resistance is not good
It's weakening the mixture so much that the engine will stall

This is only the case if the vac line is still connected. If you've blanked the vac line it won't be effecting the mixture.

Oh right - thanks. Vac line is on..

I guess I'd be better off unplugging until I get the new one?

[BOXY]

You should hear a change in the engine note at idle when you blank off the connection on the manifold. The connection on the "vacuum can" can be left open without if affecting anything. Your "new" dizzie will work exactly the same as the old 009 with just a mechanical advance but probably a slightly different advance curve.

[StuM]

Great, thanks BOXY.

Spangly new vacuum advance now ordered from Brickwerks.

Cheers,
Stu