bodging a snorkle

[Westy End]

hi all

my JX 1.6 TD has no snorkel. this was not something i even knew i needed until i saw one for sale on this site a couple of days ago (someone else got there first).

i have a rather oval original downpipe from the air intake at the side of the van but was wondering what best to use to connect it to the air box. would an elbow and straight piece of plastic drainpipe be sufficient or am i over-bodging it?

I also read that having a good snorkel makes the engine run quieter - is this true?

thanks

[langb20]

Hi,
I may have a snorkel kicking about, will check this weekend. maybe even the elbow/connector thing also.
There is quite a bit of induction noise on a diesel, so yes, perhaps it may run a bit quieter using the VW designed way of running - but noise is measured on a log scale and so it probably won't be much, it is still a diesel afterall
The oval piece of pipe you mention should have sound proofing built into it, and it's quite rigid (metal wire structure inside it) as I remember - this is to stop it drumming on the inside of the panel.

One thing that I have read is that there may be a slight performance improvement using a snorkel also (debatable) - since the idea is that the air inlet is positioned up at the high pressure zone in the air vents at the back there. higher pressure air to the turbo (on a JX) or N/A (normally aspirated) suction is a good thing.

Your suggested bodge may work fine, or there are silicone elbows/pipes online that are reasonably priced and will do the job, these are naturally flexible which you do kindof need with the vibrating engine back there, making sure that the connections are nice and tight (also reduces noise from air being sucked past crap connections) - Jubilee clips do the trick nicely

will PM you if I find any bits. Good luck
Brent

[colinthefox]

A decent airtight induction system will make a big difference to noise inside the van. I have tried three different setups, and the original was best for noise by far.

If you use a (non-original) bend to connect to the air filter, there should be a low point with a large drain hole at the bottom to let rain, or car wash water out, or the incompressible water can break the engine. The original bend was well designed to prevent water damage, so it's worth sourcing one if you can. The oval tube is OK, but prone to breakage and disintegration, allegedly causing partial blockages and smoking. I made one up out of rigid PVC tube. It let more air in but it was noisier than the VW original, so I had to soundproof the side air duct by fixing a layer of heavy rubber soundproofing inside.

[Cazz]

This is very interesting, it sounds exaclty like our bus, we need the elbow bit too.
Sorry to jump on your thread Westy End, obviously i'll take second place or copy your bodge idea, I had thought about using gaffa tape and a plastic bottle.

[Westy End]

thanks for all the info on this.

Brent - lets hope you have one or its a trip to B and Q and some bodging - I have a disintegrating down pipe (ooh er ) so could salvage that but if you have a better one and the elbow that would be great.

Brickwerks do replacements for the bottom pipe to the airbox so i can always get one of those.

here's hoping for a pm.

[langb20]

Right then, some piccies for those peeps who are still looking for some bits and want to know what it looks like...


I have tried to label it up as follows...
1 = snorkel, part # 251 129 533B there are two tabs on the right hand side, with 'foam/rubber' attachments that slot onto arrowhead metal tabs in the air duct on the van (oh so that's what those tabs are for! )
2 = oval shaped tube, reinforced inside with steel mesh & with built-in sound deadener material
3 = oval shaped rubber attachment, does move up and down the outside, guess this is to keep the main body from flapping about or sticking to one panel in the recess (which is a really annoying drumming sound)
4 = some wraparound foam, not very thick, came like this
5 = bottom bend, part # 068 129 623E, note there is a small hole in the bottom for any entrained water to drain out
6 = lower section of inlet, prob 8" long, similar construction to oval shaped tube - reinforced inside & sound deadener
7 = flexi bit 3" long
8 = this goes on the turbo inlet i'm almost certain, part # 068 129 627R
* 7&8 don't join together directly, maybe there is something missing here? (can use gaffa ) *E D I T - oh yeah, the filter goes inbetween! duh!

Now how it looks kind-of in-situ... note the snorkel faces towards the rear of the van!


Drain hole:


Unfortunately westyend, my mate at local dubclub has this same problem. and he has some bits i need too But if i come across any more bits (bought a load of bits ages ago in a job lot clearout) you'll be the first to know
Regards,
Brent

[Cazz]

Thanks Brent, thats very helpful.

It appears we have 5, 6 & 7 and 3 & 4 missing, oh dear. My eyes are peeled or my bodging hands are at the ready.

[Westy End]

really helpful post langb20 - except now i know that i have even more parts to get

i only have #2 and #3.

i will keep my eyes peeled for this no doubt expensive plastic.

I wonder why the snorkel intake faces backwards? i thought it would be better to have an air ram effect down the pipe caused by the motion of the van.....

[colinthefox]

The air intake scoop faces backwards for two reasons.

1. To prevent water entering.
2. The scoop aims to take air from the place with the highest pressure due to the ram effect, and that's right at the back.

[Westy End]

good answers colin - i should have thought of them

i cant help feeling that this air intake is overengineered but i guess that is VW for you.

in any event i have found a complete snorkle set so am picking up on saturday - i wont have to bodge it after all

[waltraud]

Thanks for the trip to T25 direct Patrick- I 've now found that the DG 'snorkel' ok its called something but i prefer your version is very similar in set up i think but i'm just missing the L shaped bit bit with a water exit hole except that the petrol one seems to have a semi-circular entry hole where it joins the air pickup pipe off the engine- just wondered if anyone with an early DG might know what the bottom 'L ' shaped platic pipe tp join the upper snorkel bit to the lower plastic air intake pipe should look like? cheers.

[colinthefox]

Westy End

Overengineered..........I think not. A friend of mine drove through a (deep) puddle in her new Merc diesel and broke the engine. Water ingress is a VERY important consideration. And the whole point of an inlet tract is to get maximum airflow.

[rollercoaster]

I need to move my snorkel from drivers side to curb side as thats where the new motors air intake is,
doubtless there will be some bodgeneering involved but will most of the snorkel work "back to front"
or will I have to hunt down a left handed snorkel?

[Westy End]

ok. i learned two things - one - this is not really called the snorkel - apparently that is the bit which attaches to the turbo. (But i think snorkel is right for this bit too.)

two - the van drives really differently - much more low end acceleration (not tried it above 30mph yet). i guess VW knew what they were talking about when they designed it

[slowcoach]

m, is this just on diesels? my petrol has what id say is the type of tube from a tumble dryer (about the circumference of a tea mug, corrugated) coming from the air filter box intake ( an L shaped duct, right hand side of engine bay) and squirelling up the air vent a short way.. definitely nothing that goes up to the black vent on the outside body.. actually thats not even attached right now as ive had the air box out so much lately and its gaffer taped on..
its always been that way though!