t25 1.9 petrol cutting out

[hives]

Hi,

I have just bought a T25. It have a 1.9 petrol engine in it that was reconditioned 2000 miles ago. It has had a new mechanical fuel pump, plugs, leads and the dizzy cap and rotor arm all look good.

It runs really smooth from start up and then a few miles down the road cuts out. Its like its looses fuel or spark as it doesn't misfiring .. just dies ..

It then won't start again for 5 minutes bu if you leave it it fires up perfectly and drives great ..

So far I plan to try a new coil and change the fuel filter.

Does anyone else have any ideas or experienced similar problems?

[Ralf85]

Check the fuel filter first as it is the cheapest problem to solve. Check the complete fuel line as there may be more than one filter. Good luck.

Patrick

[waltraud]

I might check connections at coil, distibutor and ignition and fuel filter (underneath centre of vehicle on o/S) might be worth taking off fuel pump hose to carb abd seeing if it flows well into a jar. Its got to be elecs or fuel just need to whittle it down. Does it pull ok when you drive it?

[hives]

Thanks guys, I had a look today and the filter is pretty dirty. I'm going to change it, clean it and check all the coil leads!

[karl40]

Hello Hives, I have been where you are mate and spent months trying to get to the bottom of what may be your problem. I had the exact same problem and after changing countless components it turned out to be the Ignition amplifier module which cost me £12 from eBay. The van just like you would start and run perfectly for 5 to 10 minutes and then it would cut out and then as time went on the old girl wouldn't start after conking out sometimes waiting for 5 minutes for it to go. Give the Ignition amp module a go, it worked for me and its just a plug out and plug in job all done in 2 mins. Best of luck mate.

[hives]

I am going to try that as its exactly what mine does. I looked on email, no luck, any other ideas. Are they hard to come by?

[ajsimmo]

Check that your idle cut-out solenoid isn't fed from the temp switch in the water pipe to left of carb. If it's been wrongly connected to that, engine will cut out as soon as it gets warm (this switch is there to cut the power to the manifold heater and auto choke heater element when engine is warmed up).

[hives]

Thank you for all the help guys!. Looks like I have a load of checks to do. I'll let you know how it goes!

[Stubfin]

Ignition coil on its way out gives same symptoms. Faulty coil overheats and doesn't deliver enough juice to the spark plugs. In my case it used to start running raggy after about 30-40 miles, stalling when idling and then just not starting. After waiting about half an hour the coil has cooled off and it starts, until it heats up again! Friendly RAC mechanic pin-pointed the problem.

[hives]

I did think of the coil but I think it starts again alot faster than it would take for the coil to cool down. It starts fine everytime and runs smoothly apart from i slight flat spot when you put your foot down hard.

After around 5 miles it cuts out and I have to wait a few minutes before it will start again. But it always starts and then runs lovely again.

Do you think the coil would cool that quickly?

I did kinda think it might be electrical as it smells a bit like its flooded after it cuts out. Its had leads but they are silicon ones which I have never liked. Cap and rotor arm all look good. It would be a total lose of spark as it doesn't really mis-fired, just looses all power and dies!

[Ian Hulley]

Unless you have a service record for the last time it was (recently) done I would recommend starting off by replacing the plugs,cap,leads,arm, oil & filter, fuel and air filters and put some clean,fresh petrol in it. Then if it still does the same you have a set of known good spare ignition bits to carry with you. Record the mileage and start your maintenance regime from there.

These lovely old buses don't thrive on neglect despite what some may lead you to believe

Ian

[hives]

OK ... I found the brown wire to the temp sender had warn through and was earthing on the water pipe ... ive not had a chance to try it yet as a water hose decided to split so I have to get one before I can go for a run ..

Could that have caused the problem ... ?

[hives]

I posted this a few weeks ago as my van cuts out when it gets warm. It seems to happen after the autochoke come off but before the thermostat has opened. I get in from cold run for 5 - 10 mins and then it looses all power like theres no spark or fuel cuts out completely and then you have to sit for 5 mins ... then it starts fine and I got straight home

Its had new leads, plugs, cap, rotor arm. I have changed the filter and the fuel pump is new. it pumps fuel to the float chamber and I have cleaned out the carb.

I have checked all the earth wires and wires to all temp switches. The cut-out solenoid clicks with the ignition on when cold. However, it also does it when warm and the auto choke is off. Is that normal?

I have a new ignition amp which is brand new out the box. I put this on and it doesn't start at all which is weird. it doesn't even really try to fire apart from a tiny bit every now and again.

Anyone got any ideas ...

The engine is a DF 1.9 with a solex carb ...

I really want to get this sorted so I can start enjoying my van again!!!!

[ELVIS]

Take off inlet pipe from pump on front of engne that goes to carb.

There is a tiny secondary filter pushed inside the brass pipe/inlet. I used a small pointy seal/O ring removal tool to hook it out (filter is like a witches hat- 6/8mm wide and 30mm long). It was FULL of crud/scale/poop. Scrubbing with hot water/fairy liquid and a nail brush and spraying with carb cleaner alternatively 2 or 3 times sorted that out.

Also sorted the vacuum line from dizzy to carb as were very 'slack'. Best mate got his snap-on strobe out and re-set timing properly- bobs your aunties live in lover!!

[hives]

Thanks alot for all the suggestions ..

With the engine cold I took the idle cut off switch right off. I put the ignition on and and earthed it. Alough it made a click but there was no movement. Is that right? Should it move when warm or cold when you earth it?