Went out to use the van the other day - it hadn't been used for a few days and the weather was a bit damp. Van started first time but then idled to a stop after a few seconds - it then took a good few turns to get it going and seemed to run slow but ok - as soon as i put it into drive or reverse (auto) it stalled - it kept doing this 20 -30 times. got it moving eventually but would cut out every time i stopped until the engine warmed up. I've also noticed that its started to be a bit sticky when pulling away even when worm, will take ages to get up to speed and sometimes will suddenly lurch forward like there was some sort of fuel starvation/blockage that suddenly cleared.
Even going along you feel the odd bit of drag now and again, it feels like dirt in the fuel line but i don't know enough to be sure.
Any suggestions on where to start looking (or more realistically where to tell a mechanic to start looking )
is there an obvious way to set the choke?
i've got the pierburg 2e - petrol water cooled - and have the same issue -
not the stalling - but not catching the choke on starting up - n having to give it acc pedal - runs fine once warmed up -
had a new choke pull down unit from just bankers put in a while ago too -
wondering if the marks on top of the choke unit by the acc cable are lined up ok - n whether twisting it round slightly would make a difference ?-
for the original poster - check - fuel filters - for sure - and the little cone filter in the carb (check wiki - has photo and how to) -
idle speed ok? fule hoses /breather hoses in good nick? had a spray with wd40 round carb n hoses to see if engine temp rises - indicating a leak?
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-
edoh wrote: is there an obvious way to set the choke?
After your daily checks ... oil, coolant etc ..... Before you turn the key in the ignition press the accelerator pedal to the floor and release it slowly. Turn the key, the engine should rev to around 1,800/2,000rpm. Once settled gently blip the accelerator, this should knock it down to half-choke 1200rpm ish and it will then knock itself off automatically once warm enough and the revs drop back to normal tick-over at 800ish.
Ian
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
The choke is automatic it moves open or closed with the engine coolant flowing around a bi metal spring.
There is a warm up fast idle, it is governed by the choke mechanism and operated by the accelerator mechanism, it has four throttle settings, to "set" it do as Ian says.
The choke pull down unit forces open the choke flap when revs are needed so that the emissions are reduced and over choking does not happen
The choke flap has a preset closed position (Value as per Haynes) it must be present or over choking will occur.
Last edited by kevtherev on 07 Oct 2010, 06:38, edited 1 time in total.
I have a manual choke on my 1.9DG and only have to use it during the winter wether i'm starting on petrol or LPG so I'm wondering if your choke 'pull down unit' or the choke heater isn't working and causing the poor starting, i.e, it's too rich initially - your choke may be relying purely on the coolant temperature to open it. If it stinks of fuel and the exhaust is black could be a symptom of 'overchoking' - check one of the plugs and see what the plug electrodes look like shortly after starting.
Took the van over to Syncronutz last week - it was sluggish as hell and at one point dropped to 45mph on the motorway with my foot to the floor - they had a look at it and discovered it was the plugs that were badly corroded - I never even thought to look there as the van had had a full service just before Easter (before we bought it).
Anyway I'm off to pick it up tomorrow and they've told me its running sweet!
)
