cable for wiring the interior

[jake1953]

Can anyone tell me the cable thickness/ampage for wiring up interior lights in my panelvan conversion? also can I assume it would be 2-core?
Thanks

[1664]

Yes, 2 core stranded and sheathed automotive cable. My van's wired in what looks to be about 2mm csa. The reason for the size is not that the current (ampage) demand from the lights will be particularly high, rather than that volt-drop is a real issue with 12v systems and the larger the core the less the volt-drop.
If you're starting afresh, I'd wire two separate lighting circuits (in case one goes faulty when you're in the back end of nowhere), keep the cable runs as short as practicable and avoid light fittings that use filament lamps.

This sort of stuff although you may find cheaper http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Twin-Core-2mm-Fla ... 25587d4d80

[jake1953]

Thanks for the reply and the link. will get some ordered.
Cheers buddy

[jamesc76]

erm this for 12v stuff??? if so you dont need twin core as chassis return!

[1664]

erm this for 12v stuff??? if so you dont need twin core as chassis return!

it's just a lot easier to wire and connect; plus singles don't have any sheathing as protection. I'd hate to have to hook onto the van metalwork at every 12v accessory in the van...............

[jamesc76]

thats how mine is deas easy to do , plus the wire has its sheath on it, but then Having all ways worked on motors thats how there all done, where as working on houses they use insulated return

[1664]

yes but this is not the vehicle electrics it's the camper internal wiring. I've never seen a camper conversion done in singles. Each to their own I guess but I'd use twin as the negative return will be a lot more reliable and I suspect a lot less hassle than having to find a suitable bit of metalwork at each accessory.

[CovKid]

Depends what you intend to run on the end of it. If its just light-duty or LED lights, even speaker cable can handle that. Also if you're supplying a few items at the rear it'll pay to add a separate fusebox (I have one in my buddy seat base). Use decent cable from the battery to the fusebox and use applicable cable for whatever you're trying to supply. No sense in having over-the-top cable as its harder to disguise/lose/route.

My interior LED lighting is all speaker wire, but I use a heavier guage for things like 12v sockets. Its not a perfect rule, but anything that gets warm or hot needs thicker cable - same as domestic.

[jake1953]

Thanks for the input guys. The wiring is for interior camper lights etc. when I get to buying the fridge then yes the appropriate cable will have to be used. I like the 2 core route for ease of installation.
what's your opinion of the following items ?

this standard fuse holder costs about £6.00


this 3 gang switch (as used on boats) costs about £20

[CovKid]

Yep, I use a very similar fuse box. Use much heavier wires from that to battery. Domestic kettle type cable would be adequate if thats all you have to hand - just use the brown and blue if you like and ignore the green. From fusebox to accessories, use your judgement. If you have a leisure battery, run your fusebox to that.

Switch seems fine although you'd then have two fuses I guess (if one is built into it). Maplins do a choice of single switches though that you can mount in convenient places. You only need drill a hole for them. Less than £20 too! I generally cannabailse switches from any electrical equipment I dispose of and keep them in a tin - always handy. You can also get mains wall light switches in smaller sizes that may suit you better. Nose around B&Q - particularly in their junk piles!

[folkers]

I use vehicle wiring products for wiring, fuse boxes etc, good place and not too expensive

[Red Westie]

James, I guess it's an AUTO electrician thing...chassis return.....it's how all manufacturers wire their cars but for the DIYer with domestic wiring on their brain it just doesn't make sense lol.
Feed wire..chassis return earth. makes it a hell of a lot easier hiding wires.
And whats with the obsession to use domestic cable? no offence but horses for courses, use the correct stuff, it's not like it's expensive.

Martin

[CovKid]

Depends, if the mains cord is two foot away and the auto shop two miles away, it makes more sense to recycle. We throw far too much stuff away in this country as it is. If it'll handle mains it'll sure handle 12v, thats my view. As long as you make good all connections and do everything tidy, thats what matters. I mentioned some time ago that my hard-wired dash was done with a dead PC power supply. Seemed ridiculous not to use all the cables on it before disposing of it. Come to think of it, NOTHING goes in my bin without considering if I can find another use for it.

I'm not a green freak, I just hate waste.

[1664]

James, I guess it's an AUTO electrician thing...chassis return.....it's how all manufacturers wire their cars but for the DIYer with domestic wiring on their brain it just doesn't make sense lol.
Feed wire..chassis return earth. makes it a hell of a lot easier hiding wires.
And whats with the obsession to use domestic cable? no offence but horses for courses, use the correct stuff, it's not like it's expensive.

Oh Gawd; for the umpteenth time - this is not vehicle wiring. Vehicle wiring does use the metalwork for a return but that's because it's easy as pretty much all the vehicle wiring is surrounded by easily and permanently accessible metal. If you use the metalwork as a return for each of your 12v camper accessories not only do you have the hassle of drilling and fixing the connection, you have the added disadvantage that once the camper has been fully fitted out with wood, plastic, carpet lining etc gaining access to the connection should it loosen or corrode may be impossile without stripping out loads of stuff.
And how does it make it 'easier' to hide wires? Ok, single cable is slightly smaller than twin but only by a gnat's erection - frankly if you can't hide cables in a new camper fit out you're doing something wrong.
There is no 'obsession' with domestic cable - in fact that link I put up is for automotive cable and is the 'correct stuff'. Domestic cable has solid copper cores and shouldn't be used in vehicles due to the vibration while driving causing metal fatigue in the conductors which can cause hot spots or breaks.
No camper conversion company uses singles/metalwork for the accessories - split charge and (sometimes) Zig unit supply but even with the Zig they run a single black as well.

[CovKid]

I think his question has been answered. Now the weather....